PI Suspension upgrade or Stock Suspension

My advice:

>>Have your front upper control arms modified for increased caster & elongate the holes to allow for more negative camber adjustment, add the camber locks.

>>Add an adjustable rear camber bar. (If the chassis has taken a "set" to the point that the proper rear wheel camber is no longer achievable, then adjustable upper control arms for the rear wheels are called for)

>>Replace the control arm bushings using oem style rubber bushings.

>>Install a 7/8" rear anti-sway bar (or 1" front & rear)

>>Install spherical anti-sway bar ends front & back

>>Install spring height adjustable & dampening adjustable gas shocks & springs in the range of 300-400 lbs/inch front, 400-600 lbs/inch rear.

>>Have the lower rear control arms powder coated as they are the ones that are seen by other motorists.

>>Adjust the ride height of your car so the rear control arms are parallel with the ground, then lower the front end to level the car, or a bit more to give it a nose down stance.

>>Shop for wheels using weight as a major criteria, you want the lightest wheel/tire package you can find/afford.

>>4 wheel alignment & 4 corner weighting by someone who understands the Pantera chassis.

This transforms the car's handling, maintains good ride characteristics, doesn't break the bank.

cowboy from hell

Thanks George,

Will PI do the mods to the A-Arms - Elongating the Holes?

quote:

>>Add an adjustable rear camber bar.

I.I.R.C the wheel house brace is not really designed to be the method of camber adjustment. With the stock slotted hole in the mounting brackets, it has a questionable time even holding the wheel houses firmly in place. Jack DeRyke has always suggested using a bar that fully indexes into the outer edges of the two mounting points.

If you can't get the camber settings you need using shims under the a-arm attachment clevice points, then you'll need to get an upper a-arm that is adjustable.

I fully agree with the rest of George's advice, especially the sphere balls for the sway bar-to-a-arm attachment. Even I noticed THAT upgrade.

Larry

Larry Thanks for your input.

I also own a 94 Viper. It doesn't have the caster/camber problems that the pantera seems to have. Tires wear evenly all four corners.
There is no comparison in the driveabilty of the two cars at least in comparison with my stock 71 Pantera with an advertised 56(K) miles.
Personally I believe its 156(k) miles.

I,m thinking about adapting the suspension and steering rack from a Viper 92-99 on the Pantera.

The 18" and 19" rims and tires available for the Viper and Brake/Rotor mods are simplified and plentiful. The Viper also employs stronger half shafts although and adapter would be required to connect to the ZF.

The Rims will be Inset instead of Offset.

I'll do some engineering on this concept this weekend to see if this is even feasible.

quote:

Originally posted by RT66_Pantera:
...Will PI do the mods to the A-Arms - Elongating the Holes...

you would have to contact Jerry & ask. (714) 744-1398. I appreciate you thinking of our sponsor first. Pat Mical can provide the work if Jerry doesn't.

cowboy from hell

Thanks George - I'll call Jerry in the morning.
I need to talk with you to.

George, you don't like the poly bushings? I replaced my stock bushings this year and have been very happy with the poly bushings.
Richard T.

I have used graphite impregnated poly bushings in many of my cars.. IMO - Thats the only way to go. I would stay away from the Rubber Bushings altogether. But that's just me.

Greg

I have poly bushings and really like them. They maintain more accurate steering and suspension geometry under load and over time, make your steering more responsive, and provide better feedback and feel of the road surface. For smooth roads and performance driving they are superior to rubber.

For ordinary street driving, they will accentaute rough roads, translate somewhat more shock to your mounts, and will tend to signifcantly increase road noise.

I've seen several styles. The best are graphite impregnated and are molded onto a hex insert to prevent slippage on the internal bushing. It's a good idea to add grease zerks to each bushing location on the A-Arms while your replacing them.