It's pretty much the same as this roll bar:

http://www.pim.net/20807GT523.jpg

I am going to put in a cross bar as here but I need to get some smaller pipe.

Yes the roll bar will have to come out to get the fire wall cover off but I will make the bump smaller and removable.

I like how the guy did the dome light here in the afore mentioned photo.

It appears to me the cage is bolt in and could be slid foward to get the fire wall cover on ....BUT the center access cover would have to be able to be removeable without taking the larger cover off.

Accutally thats a good idea ,,because I dont know why its that way from the factory ..it makes have\ing to set timing and stuff like that an all day project.

Gary couple minor things ... only the rear hoop and if you added a front hoop have to be 1.75 mild steel.. the rest of the bars or braces could be of any suitable diamter and wall thickness ... I remembered this from the RULE BOOK. Just in case you do run into space or a small conflict.

Anyway nice work ..keep it up.

Ron

Ron

Thanks Ron,

Which sanctioning body is that for? My main hoop is 1-3/4 dom 1/8" which would be good for the NHRA. I don't plan on doing anything other then test n tune type drags so I doubt anyone will inspect it that closely. If I enter a NHRA event then I think they would look at it a bit more closely.

Seems every sanctioning body wants something a little different. At least with grinder, saws, welder I can change it!

The only thing which is going to throw a monkey wrench in getting it out of the car is I plan on sending top tubes through the back window which will attach at the decklid hinge then go down to the wheel well. I will make them separate at the window but it's one more piece to maneuver.

Gary actually it was SCCA rules and I had remebered NHRA rules ... Both you and I shouldnt really have to worry since I dont think we will be competeing competitively. But the RULES give you some guidelines and I see your on the right track. Bigger is always better when your upsidedown >>LOL

I;m still contanplating a square hoop to outline the outer edge of the roof line and door post which I can attach tube to and keep the rear window.

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
Gary actually it was SCCA rules and I had remebered NHRA rules ... Both you and I shouldnt really have to worry since I dont think we will be competeing competitively. But the RULES give you some guidelines and I see your on the right track. Bigger is always better when your upsidedown >>LOL

I;m still contanplating a square hoop to outline the outer edge of the roof line and door post which I can attach tube to and keep the rear window.

Ron

I'd like to see it.

My brother does some running on a track. While they do have tech they are more picky about roll bars in cars without tops. Mainly they are interested in if you are leaking fluid. Like you said, I would like to do some things but not competitively.

Gary,

Here is the link to the SCCA rules ..look at pages 102 - 119 ..I have to say there is a lot of good info .. it got me thinking ??

Ron

http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2007.pdf

Ron, I am going to have to print a copy and sit on the john to read that. It's going to take a little for all that to sink in.

Are you really wanting to go with square tubing? I doubt it would meet anyone's specs but your own. Are you not liking the idea of bending the pipe? I had the main hoop bent but I have been bending the rest with a Harbor freight tubing bender. I have been able to get good bends up to 30 degrees. I have not gone past 30 degrees. There are a trick though. For 1-3/4 DOM use the 1-1/4" die!!!! I don't think the Chinese use the same measuring stick we do!

More photos from today:

LOVE THOSE WHEELS!!!!!

Looking really good Gary!
Glad to see you found the wheels you wanted.