OK.......Just got the new fluidyne, and am waiting for the 10qt armando to come in b4 I replace both units. Whilst I'm at it, I would like to replace the water pump.

OK......I've seen a few posts out there about Edlebrock, Weiands, and Milodon. The writeups I can find from the manufacturer(s) (all-things-being-equal), do have the Edlebrock unit (although more in cost) saying they will have both discharges within 1% of each other.

So....... whats the latest on choice between any of them if you had to do it over again?

Thanks,
Bob

I believe the Weiand pump disables the "recirc" passage and therefore should not be used if you rely on the OEM designed warm up system (via the orifice plate below the thermostat). The weiand also has the same impellar as the Ford cast iron pump. No advantage there. Its just a few pounds lighter as it is cast in aluminum.

the Edelbrock has a cast, curved blade impellar, which is a superior design compared to the Ford & Weiand pumps.

I am unfamiliar with the Milodon pump.

Flow Kooler also sells a pump which is quite popular. Flow Kooler claims their impellar design improves low rpm flow, something a Pantera with OEM sized plumbing may find useful.

For my money, I like the Edelbrock pump. However, the cooling system in my 73 L is completely stock for now, and has no cooling problems. The Fluidyne radiator and a good set of high volume fans will most likely solve any cooling problems you have experienced.

The most common Cleveland cooling system "gremlin" is to recieve a "Windsor" thermostat from the parts guy, and that will lead to over heating every time as the Windsor thermostat will allow your engine to recirc coolant constantly, even when warm.

Flow Kooler also sells the proper Cleveland thermostat, made by Robertshaw.

George

George....Thanks for the input. Looking at what they have written up, the edlebrock seems to be one of the better units.

Mine's not overheating now, I'm just "worried" about getting stuck in 90+degree, 100%humidity traffic during the summer and would rather not see 220+ if possible. Im not sure how good or bad my current rad is now, I hang at 185-190 max now, under cruise. Just preventitive maint for my baby.............. (and that temp is a good reading with the mech temp gauge in the dash, matching my raytek unit)....

thanks..