Steve,
After all that, the plug at the fuel pump area is the location to add an external pipe/tubing to the original location for the sender for better oil supply to the back of the block.

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by SteveBuchanan:
It sounds like the kit primarily consists of a hollow adapter for the sender’s new location along with a plug for the original location of the sender. Is that correct? Thanks.

Better a late response than never.

I found my spare oil sender pipe (picture below). Yes the kit consists of the pipe and an allen plug to block the original sender hole in the back of the block. Using this pipe makes it very easy to use your stock sending unit in the new location in front of the block in between the fuel pump and oil filter. Otherwise the sending unit would be too wide. It is also hexed conveniently so you can get a wrench or socket on it. These pipes are found on late model (80's) Mustang/Capri V8's and they even had it on my '93 V6 Ford Explorer but I think the pipe is a little smaller so you would need a brass reducer for the block.

...I sure hate to 'Rain on Your Parade', But for what it's worth; Just a Warning! This extension (pictured) is the Aluminum Ford Part, I Believe!? I have seen them snapped off right at the Male Threaded End!! Especially with the full weight of that large Sender hanging way out 3 Inches and Vibrating/Bouncing! At least Keep an Eye on it! Good-luck! Marlin.

That would not be a good thing.

Thanks for the heads up.

I wonder if there was ever a Ford recall on them since it was on so many of their cars in the 80's and 90's?

I see another potential part for you to make

quote:

Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
...I sure hate to 'Rain on Your Parade', But for what it's worth; Just a Warning! This extension (pictured) is the Aluminum Ford Part, I Believe!? I have seen them snapped off right at the Male Threaded End!! Especially with the full weight of that large Sender hanging way out 3 Inches and Vibrating/Bouncing! At least Keep an Eye on it! Good-luck! Marlin.

I tried to check the markings on the part pictured and I saw no Ford logo but a marking with a part number MS21921 running down one side. The little square markings running down the other side of the part looks like Isis(DeTomaso) logos. Funny, I don't know where I got this part. It must have come from HALL PANTERA 20years or so ago. It's made from 7/8 inch aluminum hex stock.


Your comment got me curious so I decided to unscrew the pipe from the motor in my car. It's a heavier piece and markings but the part is made with 3/4 inch steel hex stock. I use a brass fitting as the thread is smaller on the pipe than the hole in the block.



My question is : Is either one better than the Ford piece you mentioned? And, which one of the two is better to use, the steel or aluminum?

I'm no metalurgical expert so I have no idea since they both look pretty strong to me and, of course, the aluminum piece is much lighter. Your opinion is appreciated.

...Decisions, Decisions! The Aluminum threaded portion is a Larger Diameter while the Steel is Smaller, Plus must use a Reducer! Looks like an 'Even Toss-Up' to Me! Except; as a Machinist I live by the First 'Rule': "Put Your Faith in Steel!!" OR, 'Flip a Coin'! Just Kidding! By the way I was Guessing when I first Thought the aluminum piece was By Ford. The snapped off extension I mentioned was either off a Ford 390FE or It was a 351W, I don't remember which. I would Go with the Steel!...

...Oh! That Broken Extension Was Aluminum!...

Thanks Marlin. The steel is going back into the car.

Hey..... I know you can make these. Why don't you start making these out of steel with the correct pipe thread size. I am betting people will buy them, even me
I actually wished this pipe had two ports so I could feed one back to where the old sending unit mounted on the back of the block to supply extra oil. Time to expand your product line

Mahalo

I used a 3"(?) brass tubing and coupler from Lowes to relocate my sending unit thinking that brass does allow some flex from vibration. Also tried to keep the lever arm as short as possible given the weight of the sending unit on the end. No problems whatsoever to date.

Ron
#3336

First, all the oil switch extensions I ever saw were on 351Ws or 302s, which have different oil routing than the 351C. Second, although you can read oil pressure on a Cleveland from the port near the fuel pump, its at the very front of the oiling system right out of the oil pump. So gauge pressures from here will bear no relation to anything other 351C owners see; typically, front port readings will be 25-50 psi higher. The stock Cleveland gauge port is at the back of the oiling system after all the pressure drops for bearings, lifters etc have occurred. The only use I ever found for this port on a 351C (without the fragile Windsor extension) was to check pressures from both ends of a given block to debug an oiling problem. And even this cannot be done with stock Pantera sending units; they're simply not repeatable enough for any meaningful comparisons. I used two mechanical gauges.