I have an aluminum lay down rad and the high flow fans but my car is still overheating at stop lights if the ambient temp is 85F or above.
Does venting the hood actually do any good?
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Hi Agusta,
If your car is overheating, I would find the cause rather than adding vents to the hood. Hundreds of cars run fine, without overheating, without vents.
Can we get more details about your car? What have you done to try and correct the overheating issue? What T-stat do you run? When you say it overheats, are you saying that it is spewing coolant onto the ground? Or is it based on a gauge reading?
Many more details are needed to be able to give a good recommendation...
Take care, Scott
If your car is overheating, I would find the cause rather than adding vents to the hood. Hundreds of cars run fine, without overheating, without vents.
Can we get more details about your car? What have you done to try and correct the overheating issue? What T-stat do you run? When you say it overheats, are you saying that it is spewing coolant onto the ground? Or is it based on a gauge reading?
Many more details are needed to be able to give a good recommendation...
Take care, Scott
Does venting the front hood do anything?
You can answer that yourself. Measure the surface area of your radiator (width x height), then measure the surface area of the vents you like, and divide. Most vents will be only 10-30% of the radiator area, and are not fan- or even duct-fed. So by the laws of physics they cannot pass more than 10-30% of the air exhausting from the radiator (most of which will go out the wheelwells & under the car). Sure- when the car is moving above 30 mph, more air will be sucked out the hood vents, but few if any Panteras have heating problems above 30 mph. Conclusion- hood vents including '75-up factory types are mostly decorative.
IMHO, the ONLY vent that does anything at low AND high speeds is the giant GT 40-style vent, and to install one of those, you will be cutting 1/3 or more of the front trunk and front suspension supports away, which has its own problems. There are far less drastic solutions if you have minor heating issues. If you must vent your hood anyway, I suggest buying a fiberglas replica and cut that up. An intact steel front hood is worth around $1200; a cut hood is worthless.
You can answer that yourself. Measure the surface area of your radiator (width x height), then measure the surface area of the vents you like, and divide. Most vents will be only 10-30% of the radiator area, and are not fan- or even duct-fed. So by the laws of physics they cannot pass more than 10-30% of the air exhausting from the radiator (most of which will go out the wheelwells & under the car). Sure- when the car is moving above 30 mph, more air will be sucked out the hood vents, but few if any Panteras have heating problems above 30 mph. Conclusion- hood vents including '75-up factory types are mostly decorative.
IMHO, the ONLY vent that does anything at low AND high speeds is the giant GT 40-style vent, and to install one of those, you will be cutting 1/3 or more of the front trunk and front suspension supports away, which has its own problems. There are far less drastic solutions if you have minor heating issues. If you must vent your hood anyway, I suggest buying a fiberglas replica and cut that up. An intact steel front hood is worth around $1200; a cut hood is worthless.
boss wrench you are right free air will only provide 30% of the radiators needs. how ever with the fans you introduce a positive pressure thus changing the dynamics of volume of air thru the system.
Make sure there is ZERO space between you radiator and the sides of the opening. THICK AL radiators will block air and it will flow around the core, rather than through it. Stopping it from going around may help force the air through. I have the same problem and I am testing with out the hood on. I don't wanna cut my early hood.
quote:my car is still overheating at stop lights
What does that mean?
Is water boiling through the surge tank filling the overflow tank and dumping onto the roadway?
Is your temperature gauge reading a high temperature that causes you concern? If so, what gauge are you using and what sender? Have you ever calibrated your water temperature gauge using a infrared heat gun on your coolant hoses?
No one can give a valid answer to your "overheating" problem until we understand exactly what you mean by overheating.
Troubleshooting needs to start at the basics and at this point we do not know what your problem actually is.
Larry
Cute George, cute.
The fans are directed at dead space with a lay down radiator and no hood vents, especially with no air flow under the car when at a stop, perhaps consider re-orienting the radiator as near stock as possible
One aspect that is often overlooked, especially with shrouded fans is that fan efficiency is impacted by how far the fan blades stand off the radiator, if I recall correctly they are best at 3/4". I spaced my shroud off slightly to achieve that.
One aspect that is often overlooked, especially with shrouded fans is that fan efficiency is impacted by how far the fan blades stand off the radiator, if I recall correctly they are best at 3/4". I spaced my shroud off slightly to achieve that.
quote:Originally posted by agustaboy:
I have an aluminum lay down rad and the high flow fans but my car is still overheating at stop lights if the ambient temp is 85F or above.
Does venting the hood actually do any good?
The vents help to reduce water temperature at idle or very low speed, but not by very much. I reduced my water temperature by about five degrees when I installed a vented hood on my car. There were also accurate VDO gauges in the car when I did the testing. If you are having a cooling problem at low speed, but the water temperature drops at speeds above 40 mph, then it is an air flow problem. If you are having high speed cooling problems it is a water flow issue.
I'm not sure that they are worth the effort? I did it to mine, then realized how clean the original lines of the front of the car are to begin with?
If I had it to do over I would not cut the hood again. I did save the pieces that came out as well as the rear deck for the Webers.
The rear deck piece can be reinstalled MUCH easier then the front can.
The killer on the rear deck is that the Webers WILL clear the deck WITHOUT cutting it.
I bought a dimple welder and have practiced with it.
Reinstalling that cut out is on the list for the winter projects.
If I had it to do over I would not cut the hood again. I did save the pieces that came out as well as the rear deck for the Webers.
The rear deck piece can be reinstalled MUCH easier then the front can.
The killer on the rear deck is that the Webers WILL clear the deck WITHOUT cutting it.
I bought a dimple welder and have practiced with it.
Reinstalling that cut out is on the list for the winter projects.
I thought the hood grills kept some of the hot air from flowing under the car, and heating the interior?
Not sure about the argument regarding area. There may be more pressure drop from forcing an air flow through a small opening, but that would just reduce the % of air through the hood? Sitting still, seems like the question is what % of the air flow provided by the fans escapes through the hood vents?
Ken
Not sure about the argument regarding area. There may be more pressure drop from forcing an air flow through a small opening, but that would just reduce the % of air through the hood? Sitting still, seems like the question is what % of the air flow provided by the fans escapes through the hood vents?
Ken
Good grief.
As I asked over two months ago, what EXACTLY is Agustaboy's "overheating" issue?
And we still have no answer.
Until then, please stop encouraging him, or anyone reading this thread, to butcher his car's hood.
My 2¢
Larry
As I asked over two months ago, what EXACTLY is Agustaboy's "overheating" issue?
And we still have no answer.
Until then, please stop encouraging him, or anyone reading this thread, to butcher his car's hood.
My 2¢
Larry
do not cut.
quote:Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
Good grief.
As I asked over two months ago, what EXACTLY is Agustaboy's "overheating" issue?
And we still have no answer.
Until then, please stop encouraging him, or anyone reading this thread, to butcher his car's hood.
My 2¢
Larry
Did you have to say BUTCHER? Now I feel sad.
If you have a tired engine with more blowby it creates more heat in the bottom end. Cooling the oil can also help cool the engine. May be a solution whick keeps you fom cutting up hood.
Flush entire cooling system, rad, tubes etc. See how clean the coolant is. Check hoses and clamps, make sure no leaks. Make sure pressure tank cap is correct and working. Then slowly refill to correct levels with good mix. Make sure you remove all air in the system - take your time with this. Can you add a 3rd sucker or pusher fan?
Do all this before you worry about cutting your hood.
Do all this before you worry about cutting your hood.
quote:Do all this before you worry about cutting your hood
You all do realize the thread starter - Agustaboy - has never responded to any of our replies.
Never clarified what "overheating" means, either.
Hard to help an owner who doesn't share exactly what the problem is. Until he does, we are all just pissing in the wind.
Peace out.......
Larry
quote:You all do realize the thread starter - Agustaboy - has never responded to any of our replies.
Never clarified what "overheating" means, either.
Hard to help an owner who doesn't share exactly what the problem is. Until he does, we are all just pissing in the wind.
Not to mention his original question was OVER FOUR YEARS AGO!!!
Well he posted last on Nov 18 2017 and I seem to recall recent threads relating to a Coyote engine swap, maybe that was the effort to reduce overheating!
so you're saying
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quote:Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
so you're saying
LOL...
Hmmmmmmm DIDN'T REALIZE THAT PEOPLE WERE WAITING FOR A RESPONSE FROM ME. MY BAD.
ULTIMATELY I REMOVED THE HOOD FOR A FEW DAYS AND DROVE AROUND TO FIND THAT THE ENGINE RAN AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE WITH OR WITHOUT THE HOOD.
Sooooo FROM MY PERSPECTIVE VENTING THE HOOD IS POINTLESS.
ULTIMATELY I REMOVED THE HOOD FOR A FEW DAYS AND DROVE AROUND TO FIND THAT THE ENGINE RAN AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE WITH OR WITHOUT THE HOOD.
Sooooo FROM MY PERSPECTIVE VENTING THE HOOD IS POINTLESS.
PS this was with the 351C
Temps ran right at the boil over point. High pressure cap helped but did not completely eliminate the problem
Also running at high altitude 6,000ft plus.
Temps ran right at the boil over point. High pressure cap helped but did not completely eliminate the problem
Also running at high altitude 6,000ft plus.
so the 351C is past tense?
but still curious what method of determining actual temp, what little i know there are various calibrated sensors & gauges that provide erroneous data when mixed in certain combinations, possibly all combinations for that matter
what pressure cap did you try, on the European neck?
removing the hood good idea BTW, someone said "one good test is worth a thousand expert opinions" (Smokey Yunick)
but still curious what method of determining actual temp, what little i know there are various calibrated sensors & gauges that provide erroneous data when mixed in certain combinations, possibly all combinations for that matter
what pressure cap did you try, on the European neck?
removing the hood good idea BTW, someone said "one good test is worth a thousand expert opinions" (Smokey Yunick)
quote:Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
...someone said "one good test is worth a thousand expert opinions" (Smokey Yunick)
Smokey Yunick? Wonder if he knew W Von Braun?, I guess it was possible.
Yes 351C is out and put away for now.
Updating to a coyote motor.
Updating to a coyote motor.
quote:Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
so the 351C is past tense?
but still curious what method of determining actual temp, what little i know there are various calibrated sensors & gauges that provide erroneous data when mixed in certain combinations, possibly all combinations for that matter
what pressure cap did you try, on the European neck?
removing the hood good idea BTW, someone said "one good test is worth a thousand expert opinions" (Smokey Yunick)
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