Is drilling the heads for air release something that could be done with them
installed in a running car, as opposed to something only done with heads off?

I imagined drill shavings and thread-tapping shavings could easily be
an issue. But I intend to replace my radiator this Winter, so having
shavings lodge in this current radiator is not really an issue. And I
also currently have a Tefba coolant filter in place; its purpose being
to trap any free flowing trash prior to the new radiator install.

I'm thinking now would be a good time to get those air bleed holes
installed in my engine?

Larry

Hey Larry,
I have been following Asa’s thread on the “other“forum. I can not see the point of drilling the heads when it seems that 99% of the cars can be properly bleed without tempting the Italian mistress of fate. It would seem that Asa’s problems are more than an improper bleed and most likely the thermostat. I thought he posted something about putting in some kind of restrictor plate to be able to use a standard non Cleveland thermostat. Maybe that is his problem.

Are you having cooling problems?
Jeff

I don’t understand the problems people have bleeding air out of the system. I might be just lucky but it has never been a problem on my car.

Mike

Same here ... I have never had an issue getting the air out of my system. As a matter of fact I kind of relate it to a standard hydronic heatings system with as long as you have circulation eventually all the air comes out ... leaving the radiator cap off for a few minutes allows the air to escape. Only place possibly a little bleeder will help is the top of the radiator and factory my car has a little rubber hose that allows that to escape. But once circulation starts like a heatings system the air will work its way out fast .. air pockets ..I dont see it the tanks are at the high point.

Ron

quote:

Are you having cooling problems?

My only problem is higher temps than 30,000 miles and seven years ago. I used to run about 180 on a HOT day at highway speeds. Returning from Monterey on a HOT day I was running around 210-220. No,I did not boil over, but I know the car can run much cooler, and I want to return to those cooler temps.

I had to use some Bar's Leek three years back. My aluminum triple pass started seeping. No more leaking, but I feel it has started grabbing trash and clogging things up. It has epoxied tubes in the tanks, and can't be worked on. I could boil it out and regain the flow, but also the leak.

Air bleed holes keep coming up in discussions. It just seems that they surely can't hurt, and this would seem to be the time for me to install them.

However, my personal experience echoes others in that I have never had a problem getting air trapped in the system.

Larry - not following the KISS protocol

About 12 years ago I purchased a new brass/copper radiator from Hall. It is thicker than the OEM and seems to do a good job in cooling. It has been repaired twice for minor leaks. Annoying but better than having to replace the aluminum radiators.

Dick Koch is actually still running his original OEM radiator in his twin turbo. The only up grade I am aware of is Meriah fans. He says he never has cooling issues.

quote:

About 12 years ago I purchased a new brass/copper radiator from Hall.

Good point. And I guess since I am having
Ron Davis build a new triple-pass,I could ask him about doing it in copper/brass.

But the current one was installed about 35K miles ago, around 1995. So really, replacing every fifteen years isn't really that bad.

Larry

quote:

I don’t understand the problems people have bleeding air out of the system. I might be just lucky but it has never been a problem on my car.

Same here.

Larry,

What temp gauge are you using and have you checked it lately for accuracy?

quote:

I have never had an issue getting the air out of my system.

Ron,

I've never had that issue either, car included.

John

quote:

What temp gauge are you using and have you checked it lately for accuracy?

Mechanical VDO.

And no, perhaps I should get the infrared temp gun out before I go throwing money away.

Thanks for the idea.

Larry

Larry

where are you plumbing those air bleeds to?

If you're copying JT, he has a surge tank (i.e. a true low pressure tank designed to collect air) in his Pantera. So his air bleeds actually work. The Pantera swirl tank as it came from Modena is an ineffective place to plumb air bleeds. Although I'll admit the heads should vent to the swirl tank OK.

Once you initially burp the air from the cooling system (raise the rear, then raise the front) air shouldn't collect in the motor, air will form at the pressure drops downstream of the thermostat and downstream of the radiator. That's where the bleeds need to be, but you need a true surge tank like JT's to dump the air into.

the way to cool a Pantera is a good radiator & lots of coolant flow. If your temps are truly creeping upward, perhaps the radiator is accumulating scale on the inside of the tubes, or perhaps the coolant/water mixture is getting old.

-G