I found on my red 5S that the aluminum radiator petcock has been welded or sealed over, where you typically let the water out. So I was thinking of getting the car on a lift and emptying the fluid from the middle pipes near the center. Anyone have experience or tips for doing this? I could imagine the hose may be hard to remove as it may be stuck on due to time and heat. Thanks.

I have luck cutting off the offending rubber hose -- just make sure you have the replacement on hand. Who would want to reuse a stiff noncompliant one anyway? HUGE HINT use a new sharp razor in a utility knife; works for me every time.

What kind of fluid are you planning on using for the fluid change? Seems like the premixed Extended Life Coolant (ELC) is the way to go in the research that I have done; the ELC is the red stuff. There is no buildup on the radiator core over time, and the stuff is supposed to last years without loosing the rust inhibitors; unlike the green stuff. It is also compatible with all metals. You just have to make sure that you flush the system good to get all of the other stuff out.

Have fun.

Mark

Thanks Mark. I have used something called Dex-Cool in the past, it is orange & says good on aluminum parts and says it lasts 5 years. Maybe thats the same stuff?

I am trying to think how to do this with minumal rain on myself and the carpet garage. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the hose before cutting it, so at least hopefully it all falls straight down out the hole.

quote:

You just have to make sure that you flush the system good to get all of the other stuff out.

Not true. They are compatible, but the standard green will compromise some of the effectiveness of the red.

quote:

Maybe that's the same stuff?

Yes, they are the same.

Before switching to the red (Dex-Cool) you may want to do some Google searching. There were several class-action suits on the early GM use of Dex-Cool as they put it into vehicles that had incompatible gaskets.

On top of that issue, when it is exposed to air it will create a precipitate (black, gunky slime) that is not nice to have swirling around in your cooling system. Test this yourself by checking your late model GM vehicle. See a funny discoloration in the overflow tank, or under the pressure cap?

Yes, I know there is not supposed to be air in a cooling system, but what should be and what is are often not the same.

Again, if thinking of switching to the red, I'd arm myself with some Google info.

I did, and I'm thinking of switching back to the green on our 2001 Astro.

Larry

Take a drill bit (1/4"?) and chuck it in the drill. Cut a short piece (~1/4") of rubber tubing that is the same ID as the drill bit and place it over the drill bit. Slide it down until it touches the jaws of the chuck. Take a plastic bowl and drill a hole in the bottom with this drill. Don't tell the wife. Leave the bowl on the drill bit and slide it down until it touches the rubber tubing. Cut another piece of the same size tubing and slide it all the way down the drill bit until it touches the bowl. Hold the bowl from turning (or not) and drill your hole in the coolant hose.

Before you drill the hole, make sure that the coolant cap was not removed since the last time the engine was started and do not open any part of the coolant system. This will actually cause a slight vacuum in the system and will help to reduce the initial "piercing" mess.

Once you have drilled the hole and have the catch bucket in place, remove the coolant cap.

Then there are the obvious precautions:

1. Spread a plastic tarp. A kid's wading pool works great.
2. Make sure the coolant is cool.
3. Use a cordless drill, not a 120 volt plug-in drill.

I just had to add #2 & 3.

When you are ready to install the new hose, mark the hose-to-coolant tube overlap on each coolant tube with a felt pen. That way you can easily find the correct installed position for the hose.

If the hose is a tight fit on the coolant tube, apply a thin film of silicone spray or Vaseline to the coolant tube.

Good luck,
John

Thanks for all the tips on changing the coolant from the pipes, and also on that Dex Cool stuff. Google did show all kinds of bad stuff about it, and I thought it was the best stuff!

DOES 200,

The ELC coolant is good stuff; we have it in all of our Cat equipment -- and using it day in and day out does not form any white deposit crap on the radiator tubes. Our radiators die because of sandblasting -- this should not be a problem with a Pantera, unless you are traveling across the Sahara or other sandy, windblown locales. Just been our experience. ELC (extended life coolant) also has a wonderful corrosion additive that lasts a really long time (500,000 miles or some crazy high number).

There is another product out there that racers use and have really good luck with it. Of course, the only trouble that I am aware with it, unless someone else knows their stuff about this firsthand, is that is is terrible expensive. Like $40 per gallon -- yes, you heard correct. It is a waterless coolant that has a very high boiling point (370 degrees fahrenheit) that does not require any pressure to operate. It is better to keep the engine from detonating, it allows a smaller radiator because it is more efficient, and there is no water in the stuff to boil off, so no topping off is needed. From their website, looks like it is compatible with all kinds of metals too.

My only question with this stuff is, how long does it last, and is there any negatives that go along with this stuff other than the price?

Does anyone out there have any experience with this Evans NPG product? Here is the website for Evans, and no, I am not a salesman for the company (I am just looking for the best stuff to put in my car too):

Evans Coolant Website

Mark

What the heck Mark, google does show all kinds of warnings about that Dex-Cool stuff. I have Dex-Cool approved Prestone, probably the same stuff.

Jan,

Mark C showed me an easy solution. I have silicone hoses and all I have to do is loosen the clamps, put a big flat drain pan underneath and wiggle the hoses loose. They slide right off, no problem. It's also the best place to drain from as it's the lowest point on the car - lower than the rad. After draining I just slide the silicone hoses back on and retighten the clamps. Been doing this for years.

Yo Jan,

It must be ELC (extended life coolant); nothing else will do (maybe that Evans NPG+ stuff). I am not recommending Dex Cool as this is not the same thing. Here is a Shell web page pdf that explains better than I can. It is good for 300,000 miles or 6,000 hours before you need to add a booster; then it is good for another 300,000 or 6,000 more hours -- CRAZY. There is also no silicates in this stuff, so no green goo will crap up your tubes of the radiator. Anyway, judge for yourself on the following web page:

Shell Rotella ELC

Catch you later and GOOD LUCK!!!!

Mark