So I decided to buy the valley\turkey pan. Now, I'm not sure how the thing goes on in relation to all of the gaskets. Here's my guess and considering I'm no expert, please correct me!

It came with some rubber end gaskets that look like they go under the valley pan on the ends. if hey are omitted, the pan will not sit flush with the block, so it looks like these go there...right?

then, the intake gaskets go on top the valley pan? I read to omitt the cork gaskets that go on the ends and use permatex instead making sure to go up 1/2 inch on the heads.

Do I need to use permatex under the valley pan along the heads?

One last note, the valley pan doesn't seem to line up exactly right so i will be grinding away some of the material around the intake ports.

as always, thank you for your help.


John

#2647

The rubber gaskets go on the block and the other gaskets go on the heads if my memory is correct from last year. The turkey tray is a little difficult to fit between the heads but it will make it. I never had to trim one and used a good silicone sealant on the corners.

I am a firm believer in the use of this turkey tray because every time that I didn't use it, I had an oil leak where the rail gaskets are.

Yup, those rubber gaskets go under the ends.
They also love to squeeze out and split when you tighten up the inlet manifold bolts.

There was a previous thread this week about this. You need to glue those gaskets in or use sealant instead.

If you do what I did, which is to put them on according to the instructions that came with the gasket kit. They'll probably squeeze out and split.

Here is a link to my saga on installing the intake http://www.panteraplace.com/page131.htm Highly recommend that you DO NOT use the end seals that come with the pan and make cork replacements. I didn’t take that advice from a friend and got to do it twice.

Mike

I buy the silicone gasket material (RTV) in the big tube. I use a caulking gun to put put a bead in place of the entire end seals.
It cures as an adhesive caulking compound and is never going to ooze out or permit leaks from the corners.
The cork eventually dries, shrinks and cracks.
The neoprene needs to be caulked to seal.
Why bother. Just caulk the whole thing.

Mike,

It sounds like I should use the cork that was meant for the topside of the pan on the bottom side...or just use RTV.

thanx,

John

You need to become an artist or as the DI says an ar-tiest!
You can slop that stuff up pretty bad if you rush it.
The fumes aren't even a good high either.

I have done this when I changed heads from OC to CC and installed the Hall "Show and Go" package.

The intake manifold gaskets go against the heads. Use the blue tack provided by the Fel-Pro kit. I used the neoprene end seals together with the silicone dabs in the corners of the ends. Metal turkey tray goes on top (no trimming required). Then torque down the intake manifold (I used an Edelbrock dual plane that came with the Hall kit) on top of the metal gasket. Toque to spec. - No problems. I did not have splitting neoprene seals etc. the intake manifold was in place for 12 years.

Now my engine is tired so I am changing the whole thing out.

"andriyko"

The parts store did not carry the Feplro kit, they had ROL...

John

John

I have seen other valley pan gaskets marketed. When I have taken a close look on the metal gaskets it invariably says it is manufactured by Fel-pro.

Before installing my valley pan gasket, I called Fel-pro. They recommend installing the 2-piece intake gasket first then the metal valley pan gasket. According to them this ensures a better seal.

Anyway, you should not have to trim the metal gasket.

Bohdan