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<lastpushbutton>
Posted
I need to make some adjustments on my doors, to say the least...I hace not even tried to loosen the hinge screws. Should I hit them with a impact hammer? hand held.... hit with a hammer thing that turns? Are there shims or nuts in slots?
 
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Coz
PI Events and Advertising Manager
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Are they not closing at the rear side of the door or they not lining up at the front side with the front fenders ?
 
Posts: 1789 | Location: Peoria, Arizona | Registered: January 25, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<lastpushbutton>
Posted
Coz, My man! Passenger side a little high in the back......Driver side top rear scrapes the qutr glass chrome when closing. It also whistles @ 120mph.. I need top seals that go on top of chrome window and against body..problem is that the early cars are diff...
 
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I wouldnt hit anything with a hammer .LOL I would loosen the bolts on the hinge and leave one snug on top and bottom then if it hits on top loosen the bottom a bit and drop it 1/8" then slowly close the door and see where the door is moving. My Autocraft Cobra has not adjustments, I had to bend the hinge and keep taking the door off until it was right. The Pantera I have not taken apart but I do see on my car that it looks as if the alignments were never 100% from the factory. I think its going to take some grinding and reshaping when I paint my car.

R
 
Posts: 2014 | Location: New York | Registered: November 01, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<lastpushbutton>
Posted
AcCobra, I need to talk to you about some welding on my roof..please send me an email Gaino@emeraldis.com
 
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The best way to adjust Pantera doors is to start by removing the striker plate from the B post. You can mark its original position with masking tape if you want to before doing so,it will almost certainly end up in a different position but it helps to know where you started from.
The screws you are talking of that hold the hinges to the A post are only for moving the front of the door in and out, not up and down. You need to get to the bolts that hold the hinges to the door. Do this by removing the door panel. Then place a scissor jack under the rear most part of the door skin. I use a piece of rag to stop it marking the paint. Now you can loosen the hinge bolts a little and wind the scissor jack up or down to get the door into the right position. when it closes at the right height, you can then put the striker plate back on.

Be very careful after you have made any adjustments to the door. If you get it slightly wrong you will knock the paint off the leading edge against the fender before you know it. Watch this area very closely as you slowly close the door.

As for your door seal rubbers, provided your door frames fit properly you do not need the little rubber trim that runs along the edge of the frame. I did away with this altogether on my car and then filled the gap with a flat piece of closed cell neoprene to make to look right.

I have found that some of the US vendors sell door seal rubbers that are to small in diameter. This is why people experience wind noise. I bought my rubbers from a trim specialist and they fit nice and tight. The doors do take a bit more of a swing to get them to close, but there is absolutely no wind noise at 150mph, Ask Mike Drew!

If you would like me to measure the diameter of my rubbers, just let me know.

Regards, Johnny
 
Posts: 252 | Location: England | Registered: November 08, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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