I'm looking for opinions on my slipping clutch. I've put about 350 miles on my Pantera since its complete restoration. The flywheel and pressure plate looked fine with no scars or bluing. A new disc was purchased but upon examination it was determined the new disc was actually thinner than the old one by a couple of thousands of an inch and the old one was reinstalled. The only thing replaced internally was the throwout bearing with a constant contact one. On the outside all lines are new and the slave & master were replaced with stock units. Adjustments were made according to the many varied opinions about this (spring, no spring.adjustment bolt, no adjustment bolt) to no avail. I see no signs of oil in the bell housing. Presently I have it where there is about 3/16" before the throwout hits the pressure plate fingers. I have 2 theories: 1) at higher RPM's the cluthc fingers are hitting the throwout bearing causing it to release or 2) stovk engine with Australian 2V heads are too much power (no faith in that theory)How about a theory totally outside the bellhousing box: the limited slip diff is now a full slip diff!

...OK, here goes: 1. Could you have installed the disk in BACKWADRS? The 'Spring Package' goes inside the Pressure Plate; NOT towards the Flywheel 2. Do You have the '3-Fingered' P. Plate, or the Multi-finger 'Diaphram' Plate?? The T.O. Bearings are different for each. i.e. The 3-Fingered Plate takes a 'Flat' Faced T.O. Bearing and the Diaphram Plate requires the 'Convex' Faced Bearing. 3. Do you have an 'Overly' Greased Pilot Bearing? When HOT the grease flows out all over your New (old) Disk and Flywheel. 4. Are you positive you have the correct adjustment at the Slave Cylinder? Check for air gap through the Inspection hole of the Bellhousing, when Clutch is 'IN' (Depressed); should be a Min. of .040". Get back to US and let us know more details...

1) Is it even possible to install the disc backwards? I seem to remember there was a very shallow recess in the flywheel that would not allow you to do so.(unless you like sledge hammers and crowbars!) 2) Its a 3 fingered plate. I'm pretty sure the t.o. had a flat face. 3)I have the stock bushing, not a bearing. I did add some lube, but was it too much? Wouldnt it eventually burn off? 4) By gap, do you mean between the disc and pressure plate? Explain this a little more please. If Im following you correctly then there should be no gap when the pedal is not depressed, correct? This way I can tell if the clutch is constantly engaged or if something is actually slipping. If it is on all the time then I have a clearance/adjustment problem. If is slipping, then I need parts!

...That's correct; it is impossible to install the disk Backwards, But it has happened. (That is how the 'Slider' Clutch was invented. That's another story). Yes! When the Clutch Pedal is released (Clutch Fully Engaged) There will be NO gap Between the Disk and Flywheel and the Disk and the Pressure Plate. Then check the adjustment at the Slave Cylinder to make sure the T.O. Bearing is Not Riding on the P. Plate Fingers, using a Large 'Adjustable' Wrench on the 'Lever' (at the Slave) To move it Back and Forth to Confirm there is Total disengagement. To Measure for Proper Adjustment: Have a Helper Depress the Clutch pedal ALL The way to the Floor. You go back and stick a feeler gage in the 'Inspection Hole' of the Bellhousing and check the Air Gap on BOTH sides of the disk; add the two measurements together the total should be a Minimum of .040", Also, beforehand, be sure the slave cylinder is bled well of any air in the system. If all is Well, I have No more Ideas for You. Someone else Chime in...

MarlinJack, this at least gives me a direction in which to go instead of just throwing parts at it. Thats not my idea of a good mechanic. The weekend is almost upon us. I will report back afterwards.Thanks.

quote:

The T.O. Bearings are different for each. i.e. The 3-Fingered Plate takes a 'Flat' Faced T.O. Bearing and the Diaphram Plate requires the 'Convex' Faced Bearing.

HMMMMM, I didn't know this. I converted from a diaphram style to a 3 finger and didn't change the bearing. Would this cause slippage or a problem with disengagement?
Will