I just acquired a 71 pushbutton pantera. The previous owner says the clutch is a Centerforce unit. It is very stiff and difficult to modulate in heavy traffic. I would like to install the clutch effort reduction linkage kit from Wilkinson Pantera. I believe this was put in the 73 and 74 Panteras. Any ideal about how much reduction in clutch effort compared to the original unit in the 71. How difficult is it to install? Any input would be helpful. If this does not make the clutch softer what other hi performance clutch is relatively soft for daily use. thanks in advance Ben

Ben,

I installed the clutch pedal effort reduction kit in my car earlier this year as part of my car's restoration. Unfortunately, it has been over 25 years since I had driven the car so I don't remember what the pedal effort was like before I installed the kit. I had talked to a few people before purchasing the kit and they all recommended the kit.

I'm not sure, but I don't think that you can install the kit with the pedal support in the car. Ask Steve Wilkinson. I removed my pedal support from the car as I had a broken pedal return spring and the spring cannot be installed without removing the pedal support from the car. I would recommend replacing both springs. Removing the pedal assembly from the car will allow you to remove the clutch pedal shaft for cleaning and greasing the shaft pivots.

One of the items in the kit is a shorter push rod for the clutch master cylinder. It would be a good idea to replace the push rod dust boot with the shorter boot. I don't believe that the dust boot is included in the kit. BTW, replacing this push rod from inside the car may not be possible. This might be a good time to rebuild the master cylinders.

The only adjustment that you will need to make when installing this kit is to the clutch master cylinder push rod. If you adjust this rod too long, then you may not be able to depress the clutch pedal, or it may be harder to depress for the first 1/2 inch or so and then it will be ok. What happens if the push rod is too long is that the pivot on the clutch pedal shaft arm will be in line with the connecting link (connects pedal arm to bell crank) pivot and the bell crank pivot. With all three of these pivots in line with each other, nothing moves. This may sound complicated, but once you see it assembled, it will be easy.

I have driven my car 1200+ miles since installing the kit and it seems fine. Even in severe stop and crawl traffic, my leg hasn't complained, and believe me, it would.

John

Here's a pic of the parts. I don't remember if the dust boot was included with the kit.

As assembled, but out of the car. Dust boot is not installed. This allows you to adjust the push rod length.

Details for this kit can be found at www.ProvaMo.com:
http://www.provamo.com/Members...o/ClutchOverview.asp

There is even a video clip of it in action (pressed by my hand, it becomes that easy.)

Chuck

fyi, The clutch return spring can be replaced in the car in about 5 minutes. That includes removing the remenants of the old spring. My buddy Gil did mine. Mind you he's an expert on working on office equipement so he knows how to work in tight spaces!

quote:

The clutch return spring can be replaced in the car in about 5 minutes.

Yes, the clutch return spring at the slave cylinder can be changed in a matter of minutes once the tub is removed.

The spring that I referred to above is the clutch pedal return spring. You have to disconnect the link (or clutch master cylinder push rod) from the clutch pedal shaft, drive the roll pin out of the pedal and pedal shaft, and slide the pedal shaft towards the center of the car (no room unless a large hole is cut in the pedal support box). Then the pedal return spring can be replaced. The spring goes between the clutch pedal and the adjacent clutch pedal shaft support (casting).

John

And that's the same spring I'm referring to. Under the dash, laying on his back, used wire snips to remove the old one, then somehow screwed on the new spring. All done in place in the car. I know he's repeated this little trick on a couple of other cars in the club too. End result is the stock clutch pedal return spring replaced and looking like new again in just a few minutes.

I doubt the slave return spring has any effect on the clutch pedal position. Like you said, that one’s easy. Even amateurs like me can handle it.

Rick,

I guess we are on the same "spring" page. I figured out how it's done, although it seems a little hard on the spring. But I guess it works! Thanks for the tip.

John

It doesn't matter how you do it; it will break again anyway.