SS LINKAGE TURNBUCKLE???

Not SS, but have you considered one of these as plan B?............

http://www.pim.net/PanteraBilletTrunion11122009.htm

more curious than able to help;

do you want the adjuster to be hex or round?

every consider making your own?

How about getting it (and the nuts) either chromed, powdercoated or "Jet Hot" treated?

Rocky

quote:

Originally posted by PanTTera:
Not SS, but have you considered one of these as plan B?............

http://www.pim.net/PanteraBilletTrunion11122009.htm

...THAT is NOT a Turnbuckle!! It's a Support Trunion!

Larry, I can Machine a Turnbuckle for You, Same Length, HEX in the Center 1" Across the Flats (could go 1-1/8" on the Flats), and instead of turning the Ends Straight, Taper them to a nice seat for the nuts, Stronger!. A Beautiful Piece of Art in Stainless Steel. Just the Body, you'll have to find the nuts yourself, your good on the internet..
How much is it worth for Me to Machine it? I will be into it $40. for the Left and Right 14M 1.5 Taps.

I can Machine it Exactly as the Original, with the Hex in the Center, the hex will be Imperial (Not Metric) and I would go One 'Click' Larger, all around, for More Strength, and it would Look More 'Pronounced'. There would be a delay for Ordering the Hex Stainless Steel. I think I would Make a small Batch of these, for everyone who wants one.

quote:

Originally posted by JFB #05177:
more curious than able to help;

do you want the adjuster to be hex or round?

every consider making your own?

Here's LH tap. The RH should be easy.

...I Have Already Purchased the Taps.
Larry had a great idea. I'am going to carry it out.

Come up with a price Marlin. I like the idea of it in stainless too.

You're gonna need a custom stamp. I have an idea. Maybe a Marlin jumping out of the Baja?

Marlin,

It sure is great to have a motivated master machinist in our midst.

I, and I am sure other owners, look forward to your offering.

Larry

quote:

It sure is great to have a motivated master machinist in our midst.

I, and I am sure other owners, look forward to your offering.

Quella's kit always used a spherical rod end for the trunion and then modified the standard shift rod by cutting the splines off the ends and welding them onto a stainless tubing that was polished in the vicinity where it slid in the supporting rod end.

A little dry lube once or twice per year was all it took to maintain it. If the hole in the rod end was bushed with a thin bronze or oilite bushing you'd never have to touch it and it would give you more freedom in selecting the rod end and tube.

Never had a problem with mine in 15 years and the motion is very precise.

Best,
Kelly

I'm not 100% certain that stainless steel is the best choice for this application. This part absolutely needs to be as tight as possible as even the most minute movement will cause the shifting to be less than smooth. Stainless is soft and if you have ever had a stainless bolt weld itself to a stainless nut from being overtightened, you will wish that you had used a different material. Anti-seize helps greatly but is still not a complete solution.

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by r mccall:
I'm not 100% certain that stainless steel is the best choice for this application. This part absolutely needs to be as tight as possible as even the most minute movement will cause the shifting to be less than smooth. Stainless is soft and if you have ever had a stainless bolt weld itself to a stainless nut from being overtightened, you will wish that you had used a different material. Anti-seize helps greatly but is still not a complete solution.

Ron

I agree with Ron on this. The stainless alloys that are readily available to me, on bolts and nuts, the threads cross thread VERY easily and many you can not disassemble and need to be cut out.

The "generic term" of stainless steel and the term of corrosion resistant high strength material should be substituted.

Find a better material to make them from.