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Reply to "Clutch adjustment instruction"

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WRONG!!! That adjustment is made at the Slave Cylinder Piston! You WANT That Spring to return the Piston to the BOTTOM of it's Bore Everytime!

That is another way to do it.

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(This also keeps a Slight 'Residual' Pressure in the Line, all the way to the Master Cyl.)

There is always a slight residual pressure in the line due to the elevation differences between the master and the slave (aka head pressure). As long as the slave piston is at rest, the head pressure will be the same weather or not the piston is bottomed in its bore.

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I threw the 'Stop Bolt' in the Trash, Years Ago; IT Does Absolutely NOTHING!!

You are correct IF the piston is bottomed in the slave cylinder bore AND you make the free play adjustment with the slave pushrod length.

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First of All Your Not Allowing for 'Everything' Heating-Up! Among Other Factors!...

NOT TRUE! The allowance is factored into the amount of free play that is set with either method. However, with the piston bottomed in its bore, when it expands (due to heating), it can only expand towards the clutch arm, which reduces the free play (a very small change). With the piston not bottomed, it is free to expand away from the clutch arm, resulting in no change to the free play.

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You Better learn how a Clutch works! Before You Burn-Up Your T.O. Bearing!

I pulled my clutch (and TO bearing) after 108K miles during a ZF dash 1 to dash 2 swap. The clutch disc still had plenty of meat on it and could probably have gone another 50K miles. The TO bearing rotated smoothly and quietly. This is not luck, it is from maintaining the proper free play by making the adjustment(s) with the stop screw.

Either method works.

John
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