quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:quote:Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Doug, IF I was to install power steering (for my little wife's convenience) on our Pantera, I would go with the electro-hydraulic unit from a '92-'95 U.S-spec MR-2 Turbo. That unit uses a conventional power-assisted rack and a hydraulic pump driven directly by a starter-sized electric motor inches away from the rack up front. The hoses are very short as is the response. It has it's own stand-alone black box that takes speed info from an electric speedo, if you choose to use the variable ratio assist. Very popular with off-road rally guys who use hand-made emulators instead of factory sensors. Developed by a close friend who has one in his 350-Chev powered Huffacker Fiero (ex-GTU racer). He now autocrosses it. With 12" gumballs up front, it's a handful without PS! He also has one in a Northstar V-8 powered Fiero street car.
My feeling on this after reviewing as much as I could get, I personally would only feel comfortable with a dedicated EPS rack. A real bolt in.
TY for this info Boss, I do appreciate it. I might even investigate that application...just to expand my horizons?
I will now withdraw from this discussion by popular demand.
Mine is a dedicated rack but is anything but a bolt on. I absolutely love the outcome but the process was quite a job.
I think the first thing is to locate a rack. The Pantera rack is not right an causes Bump steer by it's dimensions. People mask the problem by changing the rack height but you cannot get rid of it until the rack is addressed.
The ratio of the rack and movement of the rack must also be figured out. The hose positions need to be in a position you can work with as well.
If all that could be sorted out the electric pump is the easy part.
With the rack I used I spent much time in a suspension program working out the geometry. Even this only got me "close". When I got done bump steer was effected by both height of the rack and the distance between the pivot point.
The width of the rack was a adjusted using a threaded shaft. I cut the rack and tack welded the threaded rod in place and used a rebuild able ball joint so I could weld it on.
Once adjustments were made it was welded in place.
To get the rack to fit some structure was cut out. To fix that I made a box the rack bolted to then bolted the box in to replace the metal and even added a little rigidity in the area.
The rack is adjustable in height on the box.:
To fine tune the bump steer I spent a month of spare time messing with rack height and the rack width before welding it all up and tightening down the adjustments.
The result was Zero bump steer in the full rand of suspension travel (+/-) 1/32" full range:
