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Reply to "engine number on ID tag"

I think there's potentially quite a bit of HP to be gained (especially if its a smog motor) and would suggest the following upgrades to improve HP without changing appearance.

Assuming it's a low compression smog motor with cast dished pistons and open chamber heads, swap to closed chamber 4V heads to get the compression up a bit. Better yet, have the CC heads milled for adjustable valve train so you can use whatever cam you desire and add studs guide plate and roller rockers. Milling the pedestals is optional if you'll use a hydraulic stick but would still rcommend retrofit roller rocker kit. Install one-piece single groove valves while you're at it.

Cam change. Many of the smog motors had the cam events retarded 4 degrees. Replacing the timing chain and sprockets with adjustable advance back to neutral position will help. However, a new cam to take advantage of upped compression is highly recommended.

Ditch the points in the distributor, add an electronic module, have the shaft rebushed if needed (most do), and have the advance re-curved by a good performance shop.

This is a slight stretch for stock appearance but by all means toss the stock headers if it still has them and put some GTS style headers on there. At least these were stock for GTS cars. Stock headers are totally worthless power killers.

I'd leave the stock iron dual plane intake on there. They are actually quite good but are heavy. If you could find and aluminum ford verison, you could paint it and save some weight.

I'm not a fan of the 4300 Autolite carb (sorry George, I realize these are fighting words) but you're stuck with it if you want stock appearance.

I think the stock motors were advertised in the 275ish HP range. IMO, this was quite optimistic and these motors were emasculated slugs and more like 250HP. The mods above will easily get you North of 400 HP with a modest cam on premium pump fuel.

Best,
Kelly
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