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Reply to "Final Brake Bleeding and adjustments"

Bleeder valves seal by the tappered seat, not by the threads. You can use some anti-seeze on the threads but keep extras and expect that if they have been locked up and unbled for years that you may strip them out.

For some still unexplicable reason, often the hex is not a full 3/8" and more like 11/32".

I just replace the valves when I do a major bleeding which is a good thing since you should flush out the old fluids periodically anyway.

Watch the color of it. It changes color as it absorbs moisture which is natural just from the atmospheric humidity.



Caution is advisable on ANY pure stainless steel threaded parts. "Stainless" has a nasty habit of stripping the threads for no reason at all. You need to use anti-seeze on them but that doesn't always eliminate the issue.

Neither can they take the torque load often required in the original engineering specs. I've had them pop out of the casting. Stainless to an aluminum casting in particular is just not a good idea at all.

I've had aluminum -3 ends SPLIT from just the normal brake pressure generated by the master.



There are SOME ordinary AN fittings not made in -3 sizes. Take a different route.



You are better off using the cad plated steel hose ends and fittings and never use aluminum fittings on brake lines. They just don't have the tensile strength of steel.

You can create reliability issues by trying to be too fancy because you want to add bling.



In panic stops master cylinders can produce instant pressures of 900 to 1000 psi loads in the lines. With the wrong materials you can absolutely strip the threads and pull the fittings out. That probably isn't a good thing.

Remember that "braided metallic" lines and fittings were initially adapted by racers from aircraft applications but aircraft has regular document service intervals that will often require complete replacement of hoses and fittings periodically.



AC lines generally use SAE 45° fittings but good luck on getting even those to completely seal in your refrigerant. That's why you need to recharge your system  periodically and often annually.

All materials have a porosity to them. In the case of A/C lines, some materials are better then others.

It's like raw magnesium castings that leak air when they are cold because the porosity at a molecular level when cold becomes larger then the "air" molecules and escapes through them. You have to coat magnesium wheels to prevent that.

A/C lines are that way but have less porosity so they leak right through the material but at a much slower rate. If you get two years without having to recharge your Pantera's system, you did good.

Those are long hoses and give more surface are for microscopic leaks.

Last edited by panteradoug
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