@forestg posted:Summit shows a few non hub rotors for 67 mustangs. Centric, hawk and ebc are some.
Forest I've done this road several times over the last two years. What is going on, is that seemingly everyone" is using the Centric OLD illustration of the rotor, seperate from the hub.
The Centric part number is the same with the interagal hub v the separate rotor.
If you order them, you will get the hub rotor combination. There are no seperate rotors left anywhere that anyone can find.
The "salesperson" that you speak with are looking at the same picture that you are on the computer monitor. They are unaware of what a '67 Mustang front rotor is supposed to look like to begin with. The 65-67 Mustang rotor is the same.
The rotor gets thicker on the '68 and newer.
As far as the " Big Ford" swap goes. Go to any ebay seller. Enter 1969 Lincoln.
It is going to also list 1965-1969 Ford Galaxie, Thunderbird, Lincoln.
It's the same part.
Ford originally listed the rotors as a 12" od. I have never been able to find those, only 11.75"od. I suspect that the 12", is a "nominal" 12"s?
You will need one left caliper and one right caliper. They are the same except where the bleed valve is located. If you look at my picture, you will see the bleeder at 12 o'clock high.
You use your existing hubs and lug studs. They are a nice snug fit and it's easier to assemble them if you have a press. I have a $99 Harbor Freight 12 ton press.
You will need to "clearance" the calipers in order to use an allen socket bolt to replace the existing hex head bolts. From memory now, so don't get all pissy and threaten to shoot me if I get this a little wrong please, M12-1.50 thread. I played with the lengths to get full engagement so went through several sets before I liked it.
I don't remember the length of those bolts but they are 12.6 v the 8.8 original hex bolts. I can refer back to that later if you need more specifics.
You are going to thread the calipers to 9/16" nc, bolt through the adapter into the calipers.
Now there isn't anyone that you can buy premade adapters from for this combination so I made them myself. Now for me working in steel plate, steel billet and welding it together isn't much of an issue.
The plate that bolts to the spindle uprights of the original Girling calipers is made of 3/8" x 3" plate. It doesn't need to be hardened to any extent so you can use 3/8" x 3" "regular steel" pieces from Home Depot. They will come in 36" lengths. I think they are like $28 each. You only need one for one car (if you get them right the first time). The third set worked like a charm for me.
Now you are going to find that you need to space out or shim the caliper in order to center it on the rotor.
On mine I needed a 3/4" shim. What I did was buy some 3/4" x 3/4" regular steel stock, cut one inch long pieces and welded those on the 3/8" adapter plates.
The drilled holes for the two grade 8 9/16" bolts to go through into the calipers.
Now depending on machining specs of YOUR original "spindle uprights", you may in addition need to use hardened steel shims to get the centering right?
I didn't have that issue in front but had quite a variation on the rear uprights that I didn't discover until I did the Tesla EPB brake swap in the rear. There because I didn't need the Pantera parking brake assembly anymore, I swapped in new '65 Mustang front brake calipers.
In the rear of the car, the front location tabs for mounting the brakes had about a .030" thickness variation so on the left side I needed to shim there.
You can get them from industrial suppliers like Grainger, etc. They come as thin as a few thousands on an inch up to about .030".
Now this is all the type of thing that I like to do fabrication wise. It took a few tries to get the "adapters" both front and rear to where I liked them.
I'm not showing the adapters in the pictures, actually I don't even know if I took any. Yours may vary.
You don't NEED to machine these things out of billet stock on a CNC machine. It would be nice I suppose to say that you did but then you would probably be screwing around with the mill for a week or so until the adapters looked just right?
For me it was like playing Legos just with steel blocks, cutting, fitting and welding them together.
Make your initial adapter patterns out of plywood until you get the shapes close to transfer to the steel plates.
Sure there are several kits that you can buy right now and just install them. Some Brembo. Some Wilwood. None of them are Ford except this Big Ford set up here.
In the '70s if you were racing a Pantera in the US, you likely would need better brakes then stock and if you were around Trans Am racing, you saw the Trans Am Mustangs race and this was a system lifted directly from the Ford and Shelby Trans Am race cars, not designed and developed by me, but over at Kar Kraft.
"Ford's" comment was, these are brakes that were designed to stop a 7,500 pound car. On a 3,000 pound car..."
Of course, if you are strictly into Gucci stuff for your Italian cousin, FORD ANYTHING would NEVER DO! They're just so big and ugly!
Now on the Pantera, there is only one thing that I don't like about this set up. There are two bolts that hold the calipers on to the spindle uprights. They are M12.
On the Trans Am Mustangs, those are 9/16". That would be an M14.29. Also the spindles themselves are 1-1/16" in diameter, the equivelent of the small Mustang spindles.
You could try to redrill the spindle uprights for M14 bolts but I wouldn't recommend it. Those are hardened steel and drilling them is one thing but attempting to retap them to M14 is another.
The Trans Am Mustangs used 1-3/8" od spindles. I'm surprised that there wasn't a Pantera big spindle racing version ever offered? But then I suspect that there was a good deal of friction between Ford and Detomaso over many little things anyway and like Ferrari, didn't like being told what to do by a "big fat man, who made big ugly cars, in a big ugly factory" ? 
You will only find this "Big Ford" brake thing on US raced Panteras, raced by Americans. Surprise, surprise.
Incidentally, it would appear initially that the '75-76 Lincoln Versalles rear disc brake rotor MAY be a bolt on for the rear Pantera rotor? At this point I am not taking the rear apart to find out but the only issue is it may be too thick for the calipers to handle. Watch this space.
