We just finished plumbing a car with one of the stainless steel pipe kits and I'll agree there's a couple of things that seem like they could fit better.
The pipes under the car to the front usually work ok, the fun spot is where the two quick 90's turn up to meet the water pump inlet and the long pipe coming down from the base of the swirl tank.
I cut the 90 off the 1 3/4" to 1 3/8"adapter section, and just the 45 off the long pipe down from the swirl tank. The short 90 degree elbow furnished wasn't used.
I am not so keen on the silicone hoses. They require special clamps and on a prior installation I had a lot of trouble with slight weeping of coolant.
With two cuts, one Gates 22147 molded rubber hose replaced three of those ss bends with molded bends that look like they were meant to be there. There is no stress on these connections. They just lay where they should. No forcing, no stretching. And I eliminated a bunch of clamps too. Ended up with about an inch and a half of leftover/wasted rubber hose afterwards.
The other area that just didn't look right was the pipe from the water outlet/thermostat to the swirl tank. It's not parallel to the engine in either the x or y axis. That was pretty easy to fix by cutting and shortening the section of pipe beneath the green stripe hose there in the photo. I let the hose run the length of the straight section of the pipe because it will provide a bit of insulation to the alternator below and wiring that gets routed there.
You will need a beading tool. I got mine from Graham Tool co.
Two Gates 28471 hoses will provide the tight 5/8" 90's coming off the steel heater line nipples. The long tails will be routed/trimmed to meet ball valves and then run on up to their respective homes. I used 1/4" shims to push the firewall electric panel out far enough to run the hoses between it and the firewall. Tidies things up a bit back there.
Good luck.