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I had the same problem, but until I rebuild the ignition switch or replace it ,this is how I fixed it. The relay has two 12V wires,the lower one frome the light switch and the uper one from the ignition switch, if the power is not passing throu the ignition switch because the switch is defective, you can disconnect the red wire that comes from the ignition switch to the relay, and connect a wire directly from a 12V source (battery or fuse box) to the relay, I did mine directly frome the battery and I used a 20 amp fuse to be on the safe side. but now the lights and the motor will work all the time without the ignition beeing on. which is not a bad thing anyway, less loed on the switch.
I hope this will help you.
Hani
thanks for the 12V bypass suggestion....that is a quick and easy way to fix the issue. I also like the circuit board...nice innovation/design. I will b e taking a look at my ignition switch this winter. I have a 72'(fabricated in July), but it has a single pod dash. I need to figure out which system will work. Need also be to replace the main fuse block with a modern solution. My headlights and headlight motor seem to have all relays installed to remove the load off the light switch. The headlight circuit board solution is amazing!
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Blake
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