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I'm looking for some info on doing a intank fuel pump for efi on my 73 pantera. I'm switching to a fitech efi and want to run the pump in the tank. My plans are to graft a fuel pump hanger, 255 lph to the factory pick up.  Has anyone done this or is there a pickup that's already been modified available.  Looking for tips and advice. 

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Last edited by George P
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I'm sure it has been done although most EFI conversions I know of use an external pump fed from the bung on the bottom of the tank. Are you using an internally regulated pump or external regulator?  The stock pickup tube is best used for the return and add another feed fuel line as it will want to be larger in the EFI application. 

Mr Stang, a stock Ford electric fuel pump substitutes for about the last 4"  or so of a late Pantera fuel sender line. The pump has a built-in replaceable filter on its bottom intake. It should rest on the tank bottom. You'll need to route 12V to the pump inside the tank and ground the other lead. No special precautions need be done since the oxygen-poor mixture inside a gas tank is non-combustible, so electrical spade lugs work fine- just like stock. Note there are two identical appearing pumps available from Ford: one puts out about 12 psi for TBI fuel injection and can be regulated down to 6-7 psi for a carb. The second type puts out 45-60 psi and is for true EFI. It CANNOT be regulated down to carb pressures. Both Ford pumps fit thru the stock sender hole in an unmodified Pantera fuel tank. Aftermarket pumps may be too large to fit thru the provided tank hole.

* A few more notes: Bondo, once cured, is totally fuel-proof so it makes sealing off the new power wire simple. The stock '71-'72 Pantera gas tank has an integral fuel-out line that can be used as a convenient return line for EFI, with the later '73-up sender supplying the new fuel-out line.

* Depending on what you have in mind, stock fuel lines are too small to support much above 450 bhp continuous, but with some work, a piece of 3/8" line can be substituted for the less-than-5/16" ID line in the late sender. The banjo fitting on top of early tank outlets is even more of a flow restriction.

* Be extremely careful in choosing your in-tank connecting hoses. I have several feet of brand new rubber gas line labeled 'Fuel-Proof' that swells and delaminates in less than a month when soaked in what is sold as 'gasoline' these days. Test what you buy- parts counter people lie.

* Drill out the rivets on the stock fuel tank vent and substitute a Hall Pantera anti-rollover vent-valve. It adapts a late Ford anti-rollover vent-valve. Last I looked the cost was less than $40. Anyone that runs a modified performance car these days and does NOT use one, is flirting with total disaster.

* So what's the advantage of an in-tank pump? First, it is quiet- something NO aftermarket external pump can claim. The constant drone of an external pump during a long road trip will really begin to bug you after a day or so. Second, it is unlikely to ever be damaged by road debris or from an accident while inside. Third, if you use a STOCK FORD EFI pump, you have the benefit of millions of other cars having tested the pump for decades. With an aftermarket pump, YOU are the entire Testing/QC department. Good luck.

No one’s asked the question: are you attempting to install an in-tank pump without removing the tank from the car? Also, are you willing to modify the tank? Bosswrench’s conversion is entirely do-able with the tank in place. I’m sure Scott had his tank “out” when he did his. Removing the tank creates more options. Companies like Aeromotive make drop-in units that hang the pump and have return and vent fittings built-in but they require cutting a hole in the top of the tank. You could then use a fuel level sending unit like a Centroid, where the stock pick-up used to be, eliminating the float. 

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Last edited by davidnunn

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