What is the general going price for a 1970 351c complete 4 barrel motor. that's been sitting inside covered for 20 plus years ?
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I think....
He'll be lucky to get that on that ebay motor, but a better example could probably fetch the $950 he wants....
Rocky
He'll be lucky to get that on that ebay motor, but a better example could probably fetch the $950 he wants....
Rocky
If the engine is 100% factory original, no aftermarket stuff. If it has never been bored. And if all 8 cylinders have good "guaranteed" cranking compression, then the engine is worth "low four figure" bucks to a collector. If the seller can't report or guarantee the cranking compression the price drops appreciably.
Otherwise a 1970 engine is only worth the price of a set of 1970 4V heads. A two bolt block, the standard crank, etc. are dime a dozen.
There is an exception in regards to the block. A 1970 block (all 1970 blocks were two bolt) with an early suffix, that has never been bored, casting number D0AE-J (I think J is the earliest suffix). The old guy wearing a cowboy hat told me the earliest 1970 blocks are reported to have slightly thicker cylinder walls. They were engineered for higher compression and super premium gas. The block's casting date will be around August 1969, i.e. 9(H-J-K)XX.
9 is the year code, in this case 1969
H-J-K are the month codes for August September and October
XX is the day of the month, it could be 1 through 31.
The earliest blocks having thicker cylinder walls is not common knowledge. There's a chance a seller won't know what he has. If you find one with 4.000 bores AND it includes the D0AE 4V closed chamber heads it was originally equipped with, the package is worth about $2K. If you find such an engine, buy it!
Otherwise a 1970 engine is only worth the price of a set of 1970 4V heads. A two bolt block, the standard crank, etc. are dime a dozen.
There is an exception in regards to the block. A 1970 block (all 1970 blocks were two bolt) with an early suffix, that has never been bored, casting number D0AE-J (I think J is the earliest suffix). The old guy wearing a cowboy hat told me the earliest 1970 blocks are reported to have slightly thicker cylinder walls. They were engineered for higher compression and super premium gas. The block's casting date will be around August 1969, i.e. 9(H-J-K)XX.
9 is the year code, in this case 1969
H-J-K are the month codes for August September and October
XX is the day of the month, it could be 1 through 31.
The earliest blocks having thicker cylinder walls is not common knowledge. There's a chance a seller won't know what he has. If you find one with 4.000 bores AND it includes the D0AE 4V closed chamber heads it was originally equipped with, the package is worth about $2K. If you find such an engine, buy it!
Hi Zipps, I have a DOAE-L, OK16, 4V Eng. bored .030 will need another .010 or .020 I believe to clean up. Drilled and Tapped for splayed mains. Only have the 2 bolt caps. Rods have been smoothed. Heads need valves and Springs. I have a new blue printed HV oil pump. Edelbrock 2V dual plane intake. I also have a super nice Yates or Roush (cant remember) 3V ported single plane Intake. Sorry no Pan or V/C Covers. let me know.
Hello,everybody im new to the pantera forums. im currently not a pantera owner but i do hope for a future buy.anyway i think this is the ebay listing posted here that i made an offer and lo and behold offer accepted.its totaly complete minus the carburator i bought this engine in hopes of building it into a pantera engine.i asked and was told but not sure it came from a mustang its stamped DOAE-L and on corner has a 4 number on head.i have known panteras where build on ford 351C so thats why i bought it in hopes to rebuild it into a pantera spec. engine. any and all advice on dos and donts on this project engine is appreciated.
Ray
Start by beginning a new topic instead of hijacking this one.
Define what you're application for the engine shall be, and what your expectations are.
Then read the Cowboy's sticky #3 in this forum.
Start by beginning a new topic instead of hijacking this one.
Define what you're application for the engine shall be, and what your expectations are.
Then read the Cowboy's sticky #3 in this forum.
Or not....
It all depends on what you want out of your motor, bone stock or a high powered monster, or something in between.
You may or may not want to keep that cast iron manifold - there are lots of lighter options. George has a thread that ID’s the best of the iron manifolds by part number.
You may need a different water pump, and you might need a different flywheel will if the car was originally set up with an automatic transmission, although now I am curious if the flywheel would work - the issue was the tooth count for the starter, But maybe it was also the starter nose depth...
Oh, and by the way you have the minor problem of finding a Pantera clutch, and an inexpensive ZF transaxle....
I also agree with the idea of reading all the stickies in the engine forum.
It all depends on what you want out of your motor, bone stock or a high powered monster, or something in between.
You may or may not want to keep that cast iron manifold - there are lots of lighter options. George has a thread that ID’s the best of the iron manifolds by part number.
You may need a different water pump, and you might need a different flywheel will if the car was originally set up with an automatic transmission, although now I am curious if the flywheel would work - the issue was the tooth count for the starter, But maybe it was also the starter nose depth...
Oh, and by the way you have the minor problem of finding a Pantera clutch, and an inexpensive ZF transaxle....
I also agree with the idea of reading all the stickies in the engine forum.
Rocky,thanks for sharing youe thoughts on this.i found and have been reading up on georges sticky#3 i think hes a retired Ford R/D engineer.my intent is to build a stock as possible pantera 351C Boss 4V but based around his recommended Cranes H216 cam.i would be happy with a 400hp build