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That car with the RHD pedal box seems like a perfect candidate for a dropped battery in the front trunk. Hope you're not planning on putting it in back near the right side headers- it's hot and pretty inaccessible back there if you ever need to service it or the electrical panel on the firewall, and about the last thing a Pantera needs is more weight in the rear...
Yeah the RHD drive box is suited to the custom fabricated pedal plate and pedals. It’s a full custom job and not intended to mirror the left side. Im not going to run a booster at this stage. My GT40 had non boosted brakes and I loved it.

The battery is going in the LHD pedal box recess. I will make a cover for it. I will use a new small Lithium battery. will be safely tucked away and look clean. I want to be able to put a bag in the front section tray so no dropped battery.
quote:
Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
The battery is going in the LHD pedal box recess. I will make a cover for it. I will use a new small Lithium battery. will be safely tucked away and look clean. I want to be able to put a bag in the front section tray so no dropped battery.


That was my thought when I saw the photos, ideal spot for a small high capacity battery.

For nor'easter; it is common to space the pedals forward a bit for us tall guys, I have a 1" pedal spacer on my car. 1.5" is about the max you can get before the booster interferes with the hood.
quote:
Originally posted by 72Pre-L and Aussie Falcon Guy:
1972 #3468.

You have no idea how inspirational your progress posts are. My car has been off the road since 1991 and I dream of the car running and driving on the SO Cal roads again.
Just need to find a reputable, dependable shop in So Cal that knows Panteras.


Contact Tommy Hodges (Extreme Pantera) 1-562-301-0583 Tommy is in SoCal, Very Knowledgeable!

Besides the dropped battery, RHD cars would seem to need a flat firewall so the right seat can go back far enough to be comfortable driving. You can easily do this by reversing the motor mounts side to side and bending a shallow 'S' in the ZF tabs. This moves the whole engine back about 0.8". Stock wiring, plumbing and the gearshift rod all have this much adjustment without complication. Then you can change the way a stock alternator in a stock bracket mounts and drive it from the unused inner sheave on the A/C pulley, which removes another 1" of engine length and makes only the water pump & pulley the source of any remaining protrusion.  Cut that part of the steel firewall door away that's no longer needed, redo the bubble upholstery and most people in the right seat will NOT be able to reach the front firewall with their toes.

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