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The bolts that are mounted in the firewall panel that hold the screws / bolts that hold on the access panel on are stripped, mismatched and missing on my car. The access door is held on by a collection of different fasteners. Can any one recommend a better way to hold the panel on or is trying the replace the nuts mounted in the firewall the recommended way to do this? While I'm in the neighborhood, does covering the firewall area behind the seats with some better sound insulation make it significantly quieter? Thanks everyone.
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quote:
While I'm in the neighborhood, does covering the firewall area behind the seats with some better sound insulation make it significantly quieter?



Every little bit helps. You can get a pretty thick layer on the two side sections of the metal firewall, a bit thinner perhaps on the panel hump. And you can also put down a layer on the rear of the fiberglass unit. 2511 even has a layer added on the engine side of the firewall. I am also thinking about having the panel hump ceramic coated on the engine side, on the theory that the coating would prevent heat build-up.

Larry
There are several products available that will help with sound and heat isolation based on foil-faced matt. I used it with great success under the carpets in the BOSS car, and it's quite thin. Look in a Summit racing or Jegs catalog or online under 'carpet' I think mine was called Wonder Matt and came in a 4x6 sheet. You can use spray upolstry adhesive to glue it to vertical surfaces. Good Luck.

Here you go:

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=tru-blip1...target=egnsearch.asp
I checked my nuts and they're definitely in place. I don't think the option drilling them out and re threading them is a good one. They have been stripped out big time with a succession of bigger wood screws, bolts and what ever worked over the last 30 or so years. I'm just thinking aloud here but I might see if velcro strips would work. I'll report back if it works.
George LOL LOL Ok guys for the FOIL INSULATION with the bubble rap sandwiched together. For what Summit wants for the same item... you can buy 400 sqft and wrap the whole car. I laughed at the price per foot in SUMMIT / JEGS. Go to a local HVAC supply its less then .20 cents a foot they want1.20 per ft.

Well the nuts !! LOL drill a 1/2 strip of 1/8" x 1/2" steel strip and tap it then cut it and replace the sqare nuts in the holders. Velcro will peel with the HEAT!!

Ron
quote:
Originally posted by accobra:
George LOL LOL Ok guys for the FOIL INSULATION with the bubble rap sandwiched together. For what Summit wants for the same item... you can buy 400 sqft and wrap the whole car. I laughed at the price per foot in SUMMIT / JEGS. Go to a local HVAC supply its less then .20 cents a foot they want1.20 per ft.

Well the nuts !! LOL drill a 1/2 strip of 1/8" x 1/2" steel strip and tap it then cut it and replace the sqare nuts in the holders. Velcro will peel with the HEAT!!

Ron



The insulation that I linked is not the same as HVAC foil insulation, at least not in my home. The stuff at Jegs was much thinner, tougher, and can withstand being used under carpet where it would be stepped on, it resists compression. The foil in my home HVAC is thicker and I don't believe it would hold up under carpet, it would just compress and loose much of it original insulation qualities. Great idea though for this thread as he wanted to insulate the vertical surface that would not take constant wear.

Take care
I should have been more specific . We call it double bubble by Reflecix.. Operational @250'F R-6 5/16" thick 97% reflective 60 pound per sq inch. foil on both sides.

5/16 is no thicker then normal padding in the car. 60 lbsqin should be fine for compression of feet in the interior. R-6 is pretty good considering what ?? R-9 is used in a 31/2" wall of your house and your getting R-6 in 5/16" ?? whats that eqal 2 1/16 " of inslation value plus a refecive value of 97%.

Take a look they seel similiar in LOWES and Home Depot but the price is high. 20 cents compared to 2.00 sqft.

Ron
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