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I would like to replicate the original air cleaner missing from my car. I noticed an older thread on the forum but was hoping there might be some new suggestions of what air cleaner body is closest to the original shape to start with and then I will fabricate and attach the hose snouts.  Also, what was the original air intake hose diameter? Thanks 

Last edited by George P
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Brian, hopefully someone can help you out with measurements of the air cleaner (sorry, I am months away from my car and disappointed also that I don't have pictures already! Here are some pictures of the air cleaner, the air filter is a Napa Gold 2063---a cross reference shows it used on just about every Ford since the late 50's (including all Mustang, so starting with a low-profile air cleaner for a Mustang may not be a had start).   The air tubes turn 90' and go thru the cast aluminum piece on either side--there is no clamp at the air cleaner, at the "aluminum" end the tubes just slip fit to the insides.  These pictures of the hangers may help

(hmm, if someone would make a paper template of the air horns and scan it...)



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Last edited by leea

Lee, that's an interesting point about the filter being used since the 50s.....and (for better or worse) opens up a number of possibilities to where the basic air cleaner body came from.  It would be GREAT to identify the actual host used by DeTomaso since adding snorkels would not be a big deal.

Two identifying features come to mind. First is the Goose unit's OD, which from Steve's link below, must be about 19".  This seems to be 1 - 2" larger than a lot of normal Ford air cleaners, at least from the late 60s. 

Second feature is the protruding inner 'ring' or 'bead' stamped into the air cleaner cover, maybe 6 or 7" in diameter.  I don't see this type of ring when Googling Ford air cleaner images.  All covers have stamped features of some kind but as far as I've seen, nothing to match what's on a stock Goose.  My search has been FAR from exhaustive, but I would think at least 1 image would have popped up by now that showed a similar stiffening ring/bead.

So maybe we are dealing with an unconventional unit?  (e.g., Ford marine or military part, (if such things exist?). Leftover bits from some 50s Lincoln?  1961 school busses? Econoline Milk Trucks? ….. I've always assumed it's a Ford part, designed to work with Autolite carbs...but trying to think out of the box at this point

Last edited by nate

Guys,     The stock filter is a Ford staple item....used on early 60's Birds, then 1967 GT 390......then in Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane/Galaxie 68-70 427/428 ram air units, and some "regular" air cleaners.  (390's in 68 got a larger unit for some odd reason but used the smaller 428 style in 69....)

FA325 Fram comes to mind....but the mind could be off.....  I have one on the shelf....but shelf is 50 miles north....!

Just look for a 1969/1970 428CJ Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane (not 429!) and you'll get the proper filter element!


The stock base is a hand fab unit that DeT made to facilitate this element.  It is not a "drop" style base by any stretch of the term.  Basically the air cleaner actually lifts the base off the car by a little bit.

When I made my air cleaner out of the 68/69 truck (and MANY others) air cleaner base, it incorporated the stock drop.....and helped me clear the shields due to my use of the Edelbrock RPM intake....which is about an inch taller than a stocker.......   I did need to "raise" the clearance on the lid, around the area where the air cleaner bolt comes thru.....


Nate's original link went to the paper tubes in the for sale section!

I located the original post and forwarded the link to Brian already.   I had already sent him the pictures last nite!

The pictures are gone due to Comcast abandoning it's customers with "no more picture hosting"........ so some day when I can get a low cost internet connection with some bandwidth...... I can upload all the pictures again......  It's nice being out in the weeds, but I REALLY REALLY miss "high speed internet".......presently have "slow or no, pay as you go" internet......   disgusting.....   had to drop Netflix streaming...... cost upwards of $20 more a month extra  if you streamed one movie!  ....cuz you exceeded your limit.     I'd consider paying more, but can't find the info on the ATT is sooooo polluted with wireless phone crap......vs wireless internet NOT on your phone!!!!

Sorry for the rant.....the wound is still bleeding......!

I purchased my car with an aftermarket chrome top air clear a-la-Shelby. I have searched for many years to acquire the correct Mangusta assembly without success. I was lucky to have an owner lend me his. I have been working with a few specialized trades to make a reproduction air cleaner. I had asked a well known metal fabricator to make the inlet funnel but unfortunately it did not meet my expectation. The only way to accurately make was to have the unit 3D scanned.  From this I had a machinist make a Tool and Die mold made. thumbnail_IMG_6757IMG_7371z


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I purchased a sheet of 18 gage body sheet metal and along with a friend, cut-up squares and we stamped half funnels with his 10 ton press gave them a flange and spot welded the halves together as were the originals.IMG_7371aIMG_7216c


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Concurrently the scan was used to have a metal spinner make a wood mould and spin a few center bowls. A wood buck has a short life but then it has a major cost saving compared to its steel equivalent.IMG_7369c


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Next came the task of painting the air cleaners.  I was sure we could use wrinkle paint in a can and play with temperatures to match the original mottled finish, but it was not to be that simple. After many attempts it was decided to try and find rare bulk product and then expand the methods and procedures. it took a professional painter a week to find a formula very close to the original large grain texture.IMG_7385


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Last edited by denisc

Just stunning, Denis, absolutely amazing at every step. Even the 'simplest' thing--the paint---I haven't dared touch because there was no way I'd be able to duplicate that original texture....

But what seems so disposable for us Americans (the air cleaner) is one of the truly precious things for the Goose, as distinctive for the engine bay as the Ferrero wood wheel is for the interior...Something that even money can't buy (I think we remember one in the last decade, that in a mis-identified Ebay auction sold for thousands of dollars---even before the value of the Goose itself took off). The convenient ways of fabrication cannot imitate this....Your result is just amazing, spectacular---Lee

Last edited by leea

Lee, Garth, Thanks for the compliments. It took a lot of patience. So many passed deadlines.  The spinner took 18 months (IIRC) and the 1st run had the wrong carb opening. The original funnel guy took 2 months and then I had to toss his funnels. The Tool&Die guy was 6 months past the promised date. The paint guy assumed it would be a single day job and it turned into 4 weeks and 3 quarts of hard to get paint plus some secret ingredients he did not divulge. . I mainly did the rough parts, but loved getting my hands dirty working side by side with the guys, mostly fine details were done by specialists. I mainly coordinated and pointed in the right directions. Waited when deadlines were passed.  In the end yes, a very rewarding project.

...good question Seems to be random, and the peculiarity is that (as Steve noted) the motors don't do anything...there is simply no door to actuate, this is the motor that goes to nowhere and does nothing.

   So my guess, it was something adopted with the expectation that it was part of the whole "approved" smog package needed to at least sell to California then, implemented with the smog pump and air injection but not fully implemented on the snorkel choke (and then, wouldn't we need 2 on a goose cleaner? ).  The vacuum motor is itself a Ford part,(C8AZ-9D612-A)  it appears that DeT took 'all of' the approved package as the EPA was brand new and requirements for import at risk...So if you have the "star trek" bell housing, there was probably a white fan smog pump and you should have the motor.

So easy to mount one if you want one. And no worry of it not functioning...Lee


Last edited by leea

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