AMP GAGE FIRES

The problem is really due to the wires on the ammeter working loose.

Here's what the back of the gauge looks like:


Here's how to properly secure your wiring connections to the ammeter:

NOTE: These images are courtesy of Bill Taylor (SOBill)

I seem to recall a prior post that you should install a jumper-wire between the ammeter's posts if you're running a hi-amp alternator to keep the 35 year old gauge from getting too hot and becoming a source of a fire. This is the only post I could find on the subject, but I don't think it's the one I was thinking of:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562...280067562#6280067562
Maybe someone else can find it and add it to this thread.

So to be clear, both the in and out side of the gage need to be secured as shown? And according to what I am understanding in the post to eliminate both gen. lite and resister behind the speedometer. JD

quote:

Originally posted by JD #7052-GTS:
#7052 has the original dash mounted amp gage. It has a very jumpy nature. I have read to replace it with a Hall amp gage. Is this an upgrade that should be made? Can the upgraded amp gage only be purchased from HALL? Who else? JD-#7052 GTS.

You can get the gauge to stop jumping around by putting a shunt wire across the two posts. The idea of having all of your power going through the gauge and back to the battery is not the best set up to have. If the gauge fails, you are not going to be able to keep the battery charged. I installed a shunt on mine and managed to get it more stable than it was, but I later installed a volt meter and don't have to worry about the problems of the power going through the gauge.

OK now I want to make sure this is clear. I just put in a High Amp Alternator. I have to look it up again now but I think it is a internally regulated/cooled, 130 amp. I researched it previously. My amp gauge does not move. A clamp type current meter slows it charging. I thought all I had to do was eliminate the Gen Light.