After having my car painted Red, (all over)

I am thinking of returning to its original state. (Euro GTS colours)

with a black bonnet and boot lid.

The smaller parts of the car were painted with a rattle can (Bumpers and flutes) with very good results.

BUT the larger area of the bonnet and boot are another story, I have heard of horror stories of owners who have had the Black/satin Black treatment to find that fingermarks remain and are almost impossible to remove!

So what was the paint used by the factory, you would think there was an equivalent modern paint.

Trick is not to get it too shiny, all advice appreciated.
Original Post
Black in general is just the most difficult and demanding color to keep looking "perfect".

That Pantera hood black color was discussed here before and as memory serves appears to have a "metallic" content to it.

I'm not sure if someone actually came up with the paint formula for it? I'm sure some here devised a replacement for it.

I've been using a "hot rod" satin black, single stage, that uses a hardener and when cured resembles a powder coat finish.

All of these flat or satin colors will tend to water spot if left to dry in the sun.



The black ceramic coating that's being used by some header manufacturers has a "warning disclaimer" that goes with, that says it WILL tend to water spot.

I did not use this paint on the decklids, just parts like the roll bar, suspension parts and the bumpers.

You vary the "texture" of it by varying the air pressure of the paint gun. It's difficult to photograph. You have to see it in person to understand.

You can leave it that way (which I have) or you can wet sand it down to get a smoother finish.

It is most accurately described as a "satin" color and does have a satin glow to it in the sunlight. It certainly works with the Detomaso red in that they both seem to pick up added life in the sunlight and almost add a third dimension of depth to the life of the paint.

It reminds me of the almost surrealistic dimensionality that hot air balloons have against a bright blue sky. It's an interesting effect in my case against the red paint.



This is a picture of it on my front bumper which is fiberglass. I personally like the effect. It is smooth but reads like it has a texture to it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-QU...pPX0QUiaaccgZgbM_qow

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Doug is correct when he says the paint was a metallic black.

But be aware that it was a very subtle metallic paint. You had to be very close to the car to realize that there was a metallic component to the black paint.

I am not aware of a standard replacement anyone has been using.

Larry
Peter,

Your photo link is void with Photobucket's new policies that demand money from you to third party host photos, better to size and upload directly to the forum.

Have you considered having thew black wrapped on? that way if you want to change down the road an easy reversion. The front hood is an easy wrap, the rear I prefer where just the top/center section is black as is doesn't detract from a the side profile of the car. The satin black looks bets in my opinion.

Julian
quote:
Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
Doug is correct when he says the paint was a metallic black.

But be aware that it was a very subtle metallic paint. You had to be very close to the car to realize that there was a metallic component to the black paint.

I am not aware of a standard replacement anyone has been using.

Larry


I'm not sure of the purpose of the metallic content in the paint unless it is just a design element?

The satin black looks to me the most appropriate?

The only other "production vehicle" that I can think of that used a "blacked out hood" was the '69 Boss 302 Mustang and the 70 Plymouth T/A Barracuda?

Those are both noticeably more of a flat black. The point of it being that the color reduces glare to the driver in a race car.

The single stage paint that is available now is much better at resisting fading, chipping and chalking then the original paint was on those cars.

The amount of "flattening agent" added to these paints in order to "satin it" is going to vary with the supplier. Best to stay with something that you can buy premixed and has a specific formula to it.

That way you will be able to touch it up or match it with the least amount of grief.
well thanks to everybody for their insight and suggestions, I don't like Wrap for it can come Unwrapped at the edges and corners.
The HotRod black seemed to be a good way to go but cannot get it here in the UK.

Amzon do list it, but its out of stock and they don't know if it is to be In stock in the future.

Luckily I made a call to Johnny Woods who has given me the details of a Lachler paint which is very good.

I must say that if its recommended by Mr Woods the results will be correct, having seen some of his mangusta restoration work, its just stunning.

thanks to all once again Peter.
Hi Peter,
I had similar concerns about finger prints etc when I had the black satin and matt done on my Pantera. I looked around expecting to be able to find lots of products dedicated to taking care of such finishes, but there was very little to be found. I settled for Swissvax, see here: http://www.swissvax.net/mercha...gory_Code=MATT-PAINT
I have used their car shampoo, oil and wax remover and special wax for matt finishes and it works well. For me it has been easier to buy from e-bay as there are no local distributors here. But I believe there is one in England.
Cheers, Tim.
Peter Hi
happy to get you the color code I did. Very close to original, as there is a long discussion on how much "metal" should be in. I applied (car in my garage) AN old PAINT "FROM THE 70tiiiis".
Mat black...satine look..perfect..
My Italian paint shop boys are out this week but will get you the paint code.
Looks superior..
Matthias

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