body repair questions

Hi Kirk:
Thanks for volunteering so much info to forum members. I’ll take you up on your offer for expertise on mounting mirrors.
I currently just have a driver-side mirror which is glued to the vent window. It vibrates too much to be very useful, so I bought a different set of mirrors from one of the vendors. They came with a tube of Goop adhesive for mounting, but the back of the mirrors don’t really have any flat surfaces that would mate well with the window, and furthermore I have read about the poor adhesion properties of glass possibly resulting in an untimely detachment of the mirror at some point.
I had read either here or in the POCA email forum about fabricating plastic vent windows at home, then drilling through those to mount a mirror. Sounds ambitious but I was prepared to go that route. I would love to hear a better idea if you have one.
For a bonus question, these mirrors have motors in them, but in terms of wiring it’s just three wires coming out of a hole in the back. If you have an idea of how to figure out which connector to attach to them, and which controller would work with them, that would be great. The vendor just advised me to “look on ebay”—not a big help.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Tim

Take a look at this:

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...381023856#1381023856

My mirrors have a lip that slides under the rubber on 2 sides and then usees 2 sided tape on the back vertical edge to keep the mirror from moving. The rubber holds the mirror tight.

Now in your case, you can cut a piece of thin sheet metal a bit larger on the bottom and top angle, attach it to the mirror back with flat head counter sunk screws, and slip the sheet metal under the rubber. Put the 2 sided tape on the back edge and pull the protective film off once the mirror is in place. I'll put additional pics on later today with a detailed explanation.

This is the mirror in it's raw state. I cut the mirror mounts off and add the new mount we make so the mirror fir the car correctly, the angle is right and you can see out of the passenger side.

A shot of the new design mounted. What car are those mirrors off of? Do you have another view?

Here is a back side view of the sheet metal mounted to the mirror mount. In this case the mount is hand built so I used rivets. You can use anything that will secure the metal to the plastic including panel epoxy but use some mechanical fasteners---just keep the flat or counter sunk.

Here it is being slid behind the rubber. You can see the orange tape shield that was left long so it can be pulled once the mount is in the correct position.

Pull the mirror out just a bit from the window by pushing it forward and then pull off the tape shield and press the mount into the glass. I usually use 2 layers of tape which seem to work the best. It will not vibrate or fall off.

Are your original mirrors on the car in the picture? Those look great but the a hand built mirror with what appears to be a bicycle mirror on a ball adjust adjustment epoxied to the fiberglass housing. ( had a customer send me one that fell off so I dissected it) The mirror mount system was original designed for the 2 wheeler and was most likely not intended to go 100+ MPH which is why it may not stay adjusted--IMHO

This is a 70s Ford electric mirror switch that switches from side to side and is period correct and small. I would like to know what if fits my self because they work great and are very easy to install. You can see the original Ford connecting plug in the center bottom. 8 wires--a hot, a ground, 3 left and 3 right

That is a push button starter from Jon Hass to the left of the mirror switch.

Thanks Kirk and Husker.

Here are two more shots of the new mirror, along with one of the old style at the bottom (that's the passenger side, sealed in a bag from the prior owner). The new ones are from PI Motorsports. I don't know where the old ones came from--the mirror vibrates inside the housing, even at idle, so other cars are just a blur.

Kirk, do you think with just 3 wires I have either horizontal or vertical movement plus a ground?

It only takes 3 wire to drive the mirror motor. 2 with one being a neutral all directions---up and down or 2 using the remaining wire for right to left with polarity changing at the switch for any direction change. 3 for the right mirror and 3 for the left mirror. The other 2 wires are going into the switch are for a ground and power. Some of the switches may have a different approach but you should be able to figure out the polarity change. We had to build a relay for the original GT5-S switch to be used with the Colt mirrors. I should still have one with the wiring diagram.