Anyone in need of body repair advise and/or guidance from collision damage to the rust nightmare, please shoot me a question-or 2-or 10 if you have them. I have hundreds of repair pictures that may help guide you back to sanity.
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quote:Originally posted by Rocky:
Actually, I do have a question that perhaps you could help with.
I bought an L-model fiberglass bumper, and before I test fit it, I had your buddy and mine (Rick P.) paint it.
Then I went to try and mount it, and I found it was about 2" short!
I had read somewhere that you had run across this issue with some bumpers produced elsewhere, and had tips to get it to work...
It seems to me it needs to be split and lengthened...
Anyway - I'd appreciate any advice you might have.
Rocky
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
A bumper with daytime running lights. I was told this car had some front and damage and assume it was on the left side from looking at the install pictures.
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
Sure...What type of bumper? Eyebrow? Cast aluminum or sheet metal? Here is a shot of some LED dot lights I played with on my splits. Decided to put it on the shelf. There are many light designs that should/could/would work. If you have the cast aluminum bumpers, drilling or cutting holes may be more difficult.
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
Are you leaving the bumper's shape alone? If yes, are the original lights still in the holes or have they been replaced? Do you want the LED to go into the front edge of the bumper? If yes, do you want to eliminate the parking light opening? I have quite a few different LED light possibilities.
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
Are the chrome? If yes, are you re-chroming? If no, they are rounded edged and painted, correct? You have a pre L car with no light pods in the valance with later eyebrow bumpers also with no light provisions, right? Do you want to use those bumpers or have a set of composite bumpers modified and fitted with some type of LED light? What type of light design do you like or does it matter?
quote:Originally posted by Husker:
Kirk,
What material did you use?
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
quote:Originally posted by Racecar Mike:
JFB posted a chassis diagram which show a couple of dimensions that might help. It’s no longer attached to this thread. Can it be posted again?
Thanks
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
The 2 primary reasons the window drags are from the center guide bar no having the original washers re-installed at the top and it's in a bind or the vent window felt channel gets replaced and the new material is not the correct size and/or is was not notched at the top to allow the clearance for the upper mounting bar which is screwed into the top of the door and is welded in the window guide channel. The are numerous other combinations of reasons---those are the primary ones and the window drag will weaken the motor over time---you third reason.
You should pull the window mounts and test slide the window first. If it moves up and down by hand without dragging, the rest is adjustment details. I can go through the process once your sure the glass slides OK.
On possible reason is most of the center bars do not have the same ark as the window and that is critical because it will glide smooth in some areas and bind in others. I bench fit every window now to make sure the guide bar is arked correctly.
Here is a shot of a window bolted to the drive in a rolled down position. I am holding the guide bar down---it was adjusted and greased at this point and is sliding smooth.
quote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:
I didn't want to clutter up your postings so I removed it (not the best quality). I thought Mike and I could exchange privately.
Your advice though is beyond what I would have even thought about related alignment settings.
Thus I'll just shut up, listen and try to learn!
quote:Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
OK so you want to use the early original metal chrome front eyebrow bumpers, modify them to have an integrated LED in the edge and then re-chrome them, correct? Did you fill the valance divot where the original light use to set? There are lights that could be installed on the underside of your bumpers that would not require any chrome work---not a fitted cool custom job but you would not have to cut the bumpers.
Ever consider installing a set of valance light pods and using the original style clear lens lights with the Jon Hass LED conversion? The converted lights can be used as daytime running lights, nighttime parking lights and blinkers that change to yellow when blinking.
I make the pods but you have to open a clearance hole in the valance. Was working on a modified version that would not require cutting the clearance hole---not finished yet.