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508 replies

Building a Gr4 replica

push1267push1267Member
Thanks for the comments - that's motivating. And I need motivation as there's still a long way to go.

In all honesty I look forward to finishing the metalwork. For me this is hobby - I'am not a professional metal worker. However, with a lot of attention to detail, patience, A LOT of time and a few of the right tools it can be done to a fairly high standard. Also, having a friend that can fabricate the more complex metal pieces (outer rocker and inner B-posts) helps too.

Like David fx has with his project XXXX, I'm beginning to form a vision for this car as well, allthough it's a lot more traditional and not so creative. Stay tuned for that.
Last edited by George P
C comp2Member
I love to see threads like this. It empowers more people to try things. When they can visualize what is done, they are more likely to try something themselves even if on a smaller scale.

In every project it is only as hard as the hardest task. The difficulty is keeping perspective of the task.

I find that most people can do even some of the most difficult task; they just don't know it. "Will" and "interest" are of the most important required skills.

I find if I beet my head against the project long enough there is little one cannot do; but only if the will to do so exist.
robborrusorobborrusoMember
Push, I know I've said it before it this thread, but gotta say again... "impressive work man".

For the record, I totally agree with Comp's remarks. For me it's always worked, visualize and do. Worst that can happen is the need to re-do. Sometimes I wished I had visualized longer..or even sought out more advise first. But threads like this are great to share.
push1267push1267Member
Anders, I basically only use a welder (MIG/MAG and gas-welding) and a metal bender, heat and a number of different handtools. As I said, for the very difficult fabrication that need an English wheel or other advanced equipment, I turn to a friend. However, the pantera is for the most part not too complicated to make parts for.

Got a Little Work in over the weekend.
Removed the lower front a-arm mount for repair, it had been replaced at an earlier time and had to be re-adjusted for the correct chassis measurements.

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Last edited by push1267
markcharltonmarkcharltonOld enough to know better and still young enough not to care. My '71 Pantera
Kristian,

You are doing an amazing job. I must say, I hope you are patterning all of these parts because it almost looks like you'll be able to construct a Pantera unibody from scratch by the time you're done! Thanks for posting your progress. It is great to see everything in such detail, so well lit and photographed.

Mark
push1267push1267Member
quote:
you'll be able to construct a Pantera unibody from scratch


Ha, Ha! I think not Big Grin

The only parts that were patterned are the outer rockers and inner b-pillars.

I'm actually almost done, now working on the last section of bodywork. I "just" need to finish the left front, re-mount the fenders and then the chassis is ready for the painter.

It's going to be the original Gr4 red - anyone know what color that was? Maybe the same orange-red that the ´71-72 production panteras recieved??
push1267push1267Member
I decided to use the design of the early, early cars for the front box-structure reinforcement. This is one large bar, compared to the later smaller triangular pieces. This bar sits between the front a-arm mounts and also closes the box structure up somewhat, thus providing af stiffer and less flexphrone front subframe.

It's a true copy of the original design on #1267. I added several drains at the bottom. Here is the bar being fitted

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bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
Most of us concerned about chassis rust drill 1/2" OD holes in the extreme bottom of both legs of the 'horse-shoe' stamping that supports the A-arms as well as 3 more in each main rear frame rail. Drilling the chin piece below the radiator is a good idea, but due to the shape of this piece and the 2 degree nose-down rake recommended, the hole placements needed is not at the back but about half-way forward in the curved area. Leaking OEM thermostats and hoses have ruined many of these parts (now reproduced by Johnny Woods in England).
push1267push1267Member
Removing the damaged support pieces.

These extra bars were actually added by Ford/detomaso after the first crash tests by ford - to protect against frontal impact and get the chassis to pass the impact tests. They are not present in the original design and fx #1267 does not have them. Thought about leaving them out for minor weight savings since they have no structural purpose in terms of chassis rigidity. In the end I left them there but did them in the thinnest sheet that I had.

Here I removed the damaged parts

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push1267push1267Member
JFB, I'm not sure what box you mean, but yes, in the front, the factory Gr4s had holes stamped in the upper curved crossmember and the lower radiater support for fatique strength (and a little weight savings).

I thought about replicating this, however, since the structures are closed now, holes cannot be pressed/punched to create the edge thickening that is important for strength.

Drilling holes and then bending the hole edge may be possible using heat and a taper tool, maybe? Haven't figured out how.
Last edited by push1267
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