How much weight do you think the "lightening holes" save?
A while back I talked to Jerry ap PIM. The area you put lightening holes in the chassis below the door is an area he routinely adds a plate od steel to. A friend of his was killed in a crash and he said the lower panel there was the failure point.
Can you provide a photo of the failure point?
quote:The area you put lightening holes in the chassis below the door
Yes, I would like to see the failure point as well.
The holes are actually NOT for lightening (although that is a nice sideeffect) - once the holes have been flared/swaged they stiffen the plate up considerable, that was the reason the factory did it, and the reason I did it too (and for looks ofcourse).
The weak point of the chassis is the lower B-post area. I would assume this would be the area Jerry is referring too. This area is often (almost always) rusty on Panteras that has seen real world driving and rust in this area will weaken the chassis considerable.
I reinforced this area (if you go waaaay back in this thread you can see how) AND the roll cage will support this part of the chassis somewhat more. In addition I seamwelded the seams between the inner and center rocker a long the entire length.
BUT, by no Means a pantera is a safe car :-(.
quote:How much weight do you think the "lightening holes" save?
Less than a kilo (!!!!) but, as mentioned, the holes primary function is not lightening.
quote:Amazing attention to detail! Thanks for posting the incredible pictures! How do your window scoops/air ducts fit with the roll cage rear bars?
Thanks Ron. I could say the same of your Work. The scoop ducts (there are two in each side) fit right around the rear tower bar. I did weld in the bar such that it would just clear both ducts.
I have some friends that help out in high school robotics clubs that compete regionally and nationally. The have weight limits. They learned quickly you just can't drill enough holes to substantially reduce weight. Looks cool though. ;-)
quote:Originally posted by Push1267:quote:The area you put lightening holes in the chassis below the door
Yes, I would like to see the failure point as well.
The holes are actually NOT for lightening (although that is a nice sideeffect) - once the holes have been flared/swaged they stiffen the plate up considerable, that was the reason the factory did it, and the reason I did it too (and for looks ofcourse).
The weak point of the chassis is the lower B-post area. I would assume this would be the area Jerry is referring too. This area is often (almost always) rusty on Panteras that has seen real world driving and rust in this area will weaken the chassis considerable.
I my car I reinforced this area (if you go waaaay back in this thread you can see how) AND the roll cage will support this part of the chassis somewhat more. In addition I seamwelded the seams between the inner and center rocker a long the entire length.
BUT, by no Means a pantera is a safe car :-(.
When Hall was building the "T-top" car and trying to stiffen the chassis enough to make the roof panels not squeak, he inserted at first a roll cage tube, then a lightened extrusion through the rocker panels on each side.
They bolted to the inner fender wells and the bottom of the roll bar.
Working on the last details before the chassis is send out for paint.
Here's an example of how one project creates another one.
I got two of these specially build race radiators, designed specifically for the Pantera by Aquila Racecars. They have a much larger radiator crosssection than other radiators available on the market. Therefore is's a very tight fit.
Here's an example of how one project creates another one.
I got two of these specially build race radiators, designed specifically for the Pantera by Aquila Racecars. They have a much larger radiator crosssection than other radiators available on the market. Therefore is's a very tight fit.
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This tight!
This create two issues
1) If I wan't to keep the headlight buckets, I will have to make the headlight bucket raising bar removable as the radiator won't go in-and-out of the chassis with the bar in place.
and
2) I can't use the electrical raising mechanism (which I didn't intend to in the first place)
The easy solution would be to junk the entire bucket raising mechanism and replace it with fixed headlights under a plexiglass cover. However, the factory cars retained the buckets, Thus in keeping with the relica/tribute theme of the build, I have to take a direction where I keep the buckets.
This create two issues
1) If I wan't to keep the headlight buckets, I will have to make the headlight bucket raising bar removable as the radiator won't go in-and-out of the chassis with the bar in place.
and
2) I can't use the electrical raising mechanism (which I didn't intend to in the first place)
The easy solution would be to junk the entire bucket raising mechanism and replace it with fixed headlights under a plexiglass cover. However, the factory cars retained the buckets, Thus in keeping with the relica/tribute theme of the build, I have to take a direction where I keep the buckets.
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One solution is to make a bar that can be separated in the middle with the bucket brackets bolted to the bar in the housing opening. This way the bar can be removed and the radiator installed/removed.
I made the bar in aluminum, saving a couple of pounds too
I made the bar in aluminum, saving a couple of pounds too
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Maybe rise the lamps whit a BMW 8 series or Pontiac Fiero system
The 69-70-71 Opel GT had a cable operated manual system.
There's a GT5 in Norway that uses the Miata 2-motor system (similar to a 914 Porsche), and a recent one in the POCA magazine that uses a street-rod linear actuator. This setup raises both lights simultaneously using a bar & lever.
Thanks for all the suggestions. However, as this car is going to see use mostly as a racecar I think I'll look for a more simple solution - and light weight. After all, it's very rare that the headlights are used.
Probably, I'll just remove the electric motor and keep the bracket with the gear such that I can raise the buckets manually. I'll need to trim the bracket to clear the radiator, but the gear should be possible to retain. I have a couple of complete spare gear/motor assemplies that I can play with.
Probably, I'll just remove the electric motor and keep the bracket with the gear such that I can raise the buckets manually. I'll need to trim the bracket to clear the radiator, but the gear should be possible to retain. I have a couple of complete spare gear/motor assemplies that I can play with.
Single-headlight Mangustas used a lever on the floor with (I think) a bowden cable system.
Hi Kristian, I have used these ones with success on various projects. Beauty is they are light, strong and has internal electrical limit Switches at both fully extended and retracted. So that it can be operated with a standard reversing 2 position toggle Switch.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Linear-...t0l93SGClVhHQX0Zd4Xg
They come with various length and power and would be suitable to fit below one of the Buckets for a totally concealed installation.
best
Jan
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Linear-...t0l93SGClVhHQX0Zd4Xg
They come with various length and power and would be suitable to fit below one of the Buckets for a totally concealed installation.
best
Jan
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That should Work. Thanks for the tip, Jan. Looks very easy to adapt and the lightest version is only 700 grams - great.
See you soon
See you soon
I see that they are "Rated to IP64, suitable for washing and most outdoor use" so that's good. Seems like at least one adjustable limit switch would be needed as adjusting both the down and up positions with mechanical geometry might be quite difficult.