Finished. Total weight saving is 7,5 kg (16,5 Pounds) - 6 kg from the skin alone.

The skin has a slight curveture to it both directions, but it wraps very nicely round the stiffer inner frame without having to use an english Wheel.

The lid fit the car very nicely. I need to take Pictures of the lid fitted to the car tomorrow.

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Hey Jan

You're right, the light in the paintbooth does change the tone of the color. But, it still is quite orangy-redish in normal light too.

Car got the Black stuff put on on today, looks really cool I think. Will pick-up car tommorrow - now the fun will begin.

I'll need to take the trip over the bridge soon
A little update on the Gr4 car. Very slow progress but a few things have been completed. A lot of work have gone into making a fiber rear deck fit, a lot of cutting and re-fibering, but now it fits reasonably good.

I added the Gr5 rear spoiler, a lot of the euro Gr4 racers use this version. I like it.

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quote:
Will the hose from the dry sump oil pump go into the cockpit? Or is that temporary...

I think that's what the braided hose with the thermo-covering on it is...


That's temporary - the lines are just joined to seal the oil system. There will be a u-turn fitting with the return line to the dry-sump tank.
Btw - it's a RoushYates 358 D3.
The internals of the motor are all RoushYates spec. It was sold of their nascar program a few years ago when they went from the D3 engines to the newer FR9 engines. This one has done one race since last refresh (400 miles)

It's a nationwide spec. roller engine, compared to the Flat tappet Cup motors. A little less power and torque, around 800 HP and 530-550 Ft-lbs, compared to the Cup motors around 850-870 HP - still (a lot) more than my skills can handle.

I will need to detune a little (I think), probably a less aggressive cam to lower max rpm to around 8000 and maybe thicker headgaskets to lower compression to under the current 12.1.

The block is a 9" deck R451 dry sump with a Bryant crank (3.260 stroke), Plankl rods and Mahle pistons (4.15 bore). Heads are Yates D3s with titanium valves, retainers and locks and jesel valvetrain. Carburator is a Holley 830 nascar.

I'll be taking my chances with the ZF, after all, aren't they supposed to be able to handle 550 Ft-lbs ?? Eeker
ZF strength will be the least of your problems unless you decide to contest one of the Vintage endurance racing series in Europe. On most public roads, you simply cannot use that much power for more than 5 or so seconds, so the combination will have a much longer life than in competition. More pressing may be the flexing you'll experience from the rear of the chassis. Seam-welding the whole car from the firewall back plus some sort of chassis stiffening system will help. As you probably already know, the stock upper bay-brace is useless, as are the aluminum aftermarket bars. You'll have fun sorting out what you need in shocks, anti-sway bar sizes and tires/brakes. FWIW, with a slightly too-big cam and aluminum heads at 10-!/2:1 or slightly higher, you can probably use the highest possible pump gas without needing an octane-additive. Keep us posted on your progress in taming the beast!
quote:
You can't run in Europe vintage racing series with that engine ... It's not FIA legal


Maybe if I paint it blue they won't notice !! Cool

Yes, I know it's not legal - my intention is to use it for the Danish Hillclimp series in the open class and maybe some invitational events where they have very relaxed ruling.

I'll need yet another engine if I'll do the historic races Embarrassed .
OK, I'm trying to get back into this project and find the time and motivation to carry on. So, here's a few updates I did sometime ago:

The factory gr4 cars had aluminum skins on the headlightbuckets, so I thought I would wan't that too :-). From an old rusty set of buckets, I made this set of lightweight headlight buckets with aluminum skin and all excess metal cut off.

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Again, as the factory cars ran quicker ratio steering (2.4) I wanted to add that to the car.
Thus, we did the "goodroc" quickrack steering rack conversion using a new Ford Escort MK1/Mk2 Heavy Duty short stem 2.4 ratio rack from Burton Power in the UK.

As described in Goodroc's thread, this conversion requires a little machining of the housing. Will be interesting to experiment with the position of the rack to evaluate the effect on bumpsteer.

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quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
Well, I suppose I was motivated enough to invest quite substantially in a set of high-end Intrax race coilovers specifically set-up for my car and it's expected use !


Great choice! The one thing I did different, was to have them set up in colors to my taste, as flashy colors do not fit a 71 car imo ;-)

quote:
impressive that you can fit 8-piston calipers inside the 15" wheel.


The calipers were originally designed as F1 calipers in the early seventies, so they are designed to fit inside 13" wheels (I think that is what is used in F1?). Detomaso at some point in 1974-75 decided that they would homologate them for the Pantera.

Kid, you're right about the color of the coilovers, I should have thought about that !! :-). Red goes with the exterior of the car !!. What version of the intrax shocks are you using?

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quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
Kid, you're right about the color of the coilovers, I should have thought about that !! :-). Red goes with the exterior of the car !!. What version of the intrax shocks are you using?


1K2 with titan coating. Back then I just asked whether a black/grey finish was possible, which was, and as far as I can remember, at no extra cost (my invoice doesn't mention it as an extra neither). :-)
The block is a Ford racing R451 dry sump block and is highly modified by RoushYates. Note that the block appears to have been polished/machined on all inner surfaces.

The lifter bores have offset bronzebushings and a cam tunnel is installed around the cam.

Not shown is the oil scavenge system that pull oil from the lifter valley via the dry sump pump

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I talked to RoushYates (actually through SRI Performance which distributes Roush Yates parts) and they send me a 40 page file of the history of the engine. Last rebuild in 2010 before it was sold of. Hasn't been run since.

They included the dynorun after last fresh-up Eeker Eeker

Thinking about limiting the revs to 7000 ... Cool

Not entirely convinced that this is of my engine, as the roller motors usually does not rev beyond 9000 but parts in the engine does match the buildsheets

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What is Rousch recommended refresh/rebuild interval on the engine? I bet in NASCAR they tear them down after every weekend!

A lower rev limit would be wise to get longevity, but where is the cam happy for vintage racing?

If I drop my race engine shifts by 1000 rpm to 9500 I get maybe another 250 miles between rebuilds....
quote:
What is Rousch recommended refresh/rebuild interval on the engine? I bet in NASCAR they tear them down after every weekend!

A lower rev limit would be wise to get longevity, but where is the cam happy for vintage racing?

If I drop my race engine shifts by 1000 rpm to 9500 I get maybe another 250 miles between rebuilds....



Yes, Roush takes them apart every race and freshen them up - typically 400-500 miles. The files for this motor shows very detailed monitoring of each component with miles and last replacement. It's not clear how many miles they put on all parts, but some are replaced every race.

With the kind of racing I intend to do, I would expect a much longer service life. I may restrict it to 7500-8000 rpm, so it will not run anywhere near it's potential.

That was my initial thought about purchasing this engine, an engine with high quality parts that I can run below it's full potential with good durability. The 351C is just more fragile, and I'll only consider that if I wan't to run the FIA sanctioned races.

Regarding the cam, I ordered a cam degree kit, to help determine duration and lift. The files show a 325C cam (duration maybe), with lift around .825 in/ex.

I am considering increasing head gasket thickness (Cometic gaskets come in many thickness and are reusable), and reducing lift/duration by changing rockers arms. This engine run a 2.1:1 rocker arm ratio, and by changing that to maybe 1.9:1, lift is reduced by around 10% and duration profile is lowered too (by how much I'm not sure). Rocker arms are available used/new from Yates, at reasonable prices.

I cannot lower rpm too much as the D3 heads are ported for high rpm, - they flow around 420 cfm on the intakes.
There's an interesting article about them at D3 heads

/Kristian
Wow, wow, wow....it's been a while since I looked at your project and not sure where to start...but suffice to say your dedication to this project is incredible. There are so many nice parts and great craftsmanship going into your build....not sure which gets more drool....the chassis work, the motor, the hubs/brake hats/disc rotors, the brake calipers, the shocks, the motor, the valve train components, the motor crank & rods. Holy smoke, just fantastic! Your build is what so many of us just dream about at night!

Very long time since I updated this thread. Not much work going on sadly.

However, I thought it would be cool to do some historic graphics on the car. So here's what we came up with. Not all done and still need to change the Pantera script a little, it's too fat, but otherwise pretty close.

Replicating the Dubois car #2860 in it's 1972 Spa-Francorchamps livery.

Period correct yes, polically correct, not so much :-)

IMG_2607

IMG_2604

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