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I've got lifters/cam/springs to swap in a solid roller cam, but contemplating a few issues doing the swap with the motor in the car. One is clearance for mounting a degree wheel. How large of a wheel can I fit in the bulkhead. Also I was thinking of using one of the moroso spring compressor tools with the lever. Will this piece work inside the engine bay? I saw another tool that Buxton Engineering makes, but its another 100 dollars over the moroso piece. Anyone ever done a cam swap with the motor in the car or is this something reserved for pulling motor completely out because I'm not really excited about pulling the motor completely out.
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When I did my cam and lifter swap I could not fit the degree wheel I had in. So I just install the cam with out degreeing it Frowner It ran good but I am sure I left some HP on the table.

What was a pain in the a** was the oil pan and timing cover. You have to drop the front of the oil pan to fit the timing cover back on.

If I was to do it again the engine would come out..!
Pulling the motor out of a Pantera is not that difficult IMO. I personally think doing so will more than offset trying to do the cam through the access panel from the cabin and reaching in over the rear. One slip and you've got a torn seat or oil stained carpet......you have to pull the heads anyway, so why not make it easy on yourself.

Get a few of your local PNWC guys around, I hear tell they are very adept a pulling an engine for few beers and pizza!

Julian
...Pull the Engine!! You'll be Glad You Did! Much less Hassle in the Long Run. It would be very difficult to 'Absolutely' Seal the Oil Pan and Timing Cover Back On! You will Not be able to get in there and scrap the old Pan Gasket off, that You Damaged when You Broke the Pan Free (unless you Raise the Engine quite a bit, and then Your Halfway to Pulling it anyway). You'll have Oil Leaks Forever!!

Joules, Why would He have to Pull the Heads? Unless The Heads need Work. Yes! I agree, a New Cam warrants 'Freshening' the Heads Completely.

If Your Just changing out the V. Springs; You don't need Compressed Air, either, to hold the Valves from Falling into the Cylinder! You can do an 'Old School' Trick to hold them in Place:

You use a piece of Small Diameter Rope, 'Water Skiing' Plastic Rope works well.
You bring the Piston in each cylinder down, By Hand, Insert about 10-12 inches of Rope in through the Spark Plug Hole, Bring the piston back up (by Hand) crushing the rope against Both valve Heads. Then use Your 'Lever' Spring Compressor to remove the Locks/Retainer/Spring. Install the New Parts. Here's Your chance to Install New 'Valve Guide Seals'. When done, Lower the Piston and pull the Rope Out. I've used this method a few times, it Works!
I just don't care to lean in or have to climb into the Engine Bay to do this kind of Work!

Weather You decide to 'Pull' or Not
Good-Luck with it!
Last edited by marlinjack
quote:
Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
Joules, Why would He have to Pull the Heads? Unless The Heads need Work.


Marlin, agreed it can be done witn heds in place, but in going that far I'd want to ensure the seats are all good and if wearing the oem Ford two piece valves I wouldn't install a new cam without new one piece valves.

Julian
I may have to do the inevitable, I would really like to be able to degree in the cam accurately, check p/v clearance etc. I've read the instructions for pulling the motor and have a hoist/load balancer/stand and engine dolly, so thats not a problem. I was just hoping it could be done in the car, but I forgot about having to undo the pan on the clevelands. I need to anyway I have a small leak near the front of the pan that needs to be re-sealed. Would give me another chance to look over the motor while its out. I just know that once I pull it out I'll start 500 other projects like cleaning gas tank etc. You guys know how that goes.
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