I have a 72, has been off the road couple years.  It doest want to roll freely- Under power it'll drive but it won't roll- am I looking into something on the parking brake or the calipers?   No grinding sound- just super stiff car   Thank to all for your insight.  

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after driving, first without touching, carefully feel if the lug nuts are hot.

I just had the truck brake pads replaced and after a short drive the calipers stuck.  mine was bad enough, I could tell the rpms were high.   the bad caliper got too hot to touch

It sounds like the calipers are somewhat frozen.  The vendors sell kits to replace rubber in the calipers.  The pistons typically have some corrosion on them and it may be possible to polish (buff) them to an acceptable level.  If you tackle this yourself it may be best to do one side at a time so that you have a clear picture for reassembly.  Another approach is to buy new aftermarket calipers from SACC that simply bolt on.

Mine is doing the exact same thing. I dis-connected the parking brake cables with no change. Jacked the whole thing up and checked all 4 corners. Took a lot of force to turn them. I am going with the replace caliper route. I'll keep the originals and when there is time I may check into rebuilding those.

If it is all 4 breaks that don't release then it doesn't sound like the parking brake is the problem. Check if you have an aftermarket brake master cylinder with an adaptor between the booster and the master cylinder, it is well known that some of those old adaptors are a bit tight/get a bit tight when the car warms up and stop the master cylinder releasing properly and then the brakes are always slightly on.  I had exactly this problem with my Pantera since I bought it. Changing to the right master cylinder without the adaptor fixed it. Some people also talk about collapsed brake lines not releasing pressure, but I guess this would not affect all 4 corners at once. I haven't experience that myself..

With cars that have been stored, the actual e-brake cable can seize in the steel jacket. Check to see both the inner cables move back & forth when the handle is pulled. But mostly it's varnish causing a piston or two to stick in the 'on' position at either front or back (or both). I've had cars with completely plugged bleeder screws that needed to be drilled out to bleed the calipers! Disassembly and thorough cleaning is the fix and while you're in there, it's smart to rebuild the caliper(s). After all, it could be 50 years since anyone dug around in them and nothing lasts forever. Sticking brakes are not safe!

There have been several illustrated articles in POCA Newsletters over the decades on how this is properly done. Mike Daily's website likely also has directions. Vendors sell kits for both ends of the car (two brakes) or replacement calipers with your cores, but be warned: this is one of the dirtiest most miserable, sloppy jobs on your car and it will take a full weekend (at very low cost) for an inexperienced owner to do correctly- if nothing is broken or lost. It's quite possible to do it wrong, as well....  Rumor has it that one such owner wound up under a semi-trailer during his check ride. Two experienced guys (with kits, new fluid and the proper tools) can and have correctly fixed all 4 calipers in an afternoon, during a yearly Chapter Tech session. Just another reason to not be a lone wolf owner....

Hello- Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.  In jacking the car- the 2 fronts rolls easily- the right driver is basically good- a little tight but not objectionable.  The passenger rear is tight.   And the handbrake is still/ barely moves.  I'm guessing a disassembly inspection and thorough cleaning of the parking brake mechanisms is step one. 

check when you open the bleeder from the passenger side brake  if the wheel will turn freely.

It can be happened that the inside of the rubber brake hose is closed by dissolved rubber .Than it's keep's to much pressure into the brake caliper.

happens me several times whit old rubber brake hoses.



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