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Hi All,

It's 132 degrees here, or feels like it. My new rotary compressor WAS filled with the 'not so expensive' refrigerant but put a little too much pressure on my condenser, blew a line, now it's time to fix that problem once and for all.

I prefer NOT to relocate up front, so what do you guys suggest for a better rear condenser set up?

I saw LastPushButton's 'ackit.com' and Mitsu fan set up, looked good. Any other members tried that one?

Alternates? Accolades or warnings you'd offer?
Last edited {1}
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Hey Adams! I'm still happy with mine. Dual cross flow is important for efficency. I still have stock hoses with new ends. Be warned that the system runs at about 325 PSI. Mine holds 2 cans of 134a. No fancy switches... the only thing that releases the compressor clutch is the stock style freeze switch stuck in the evaporator and the dash mounted switch. The first can of refrigerant had oil and sealer in it. I think the sealer keeps the gas from leaking through the older hoses. Stay Cool Big Grin

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quote:
The first can of refrigerant had oil and sealer in it.

Hmmm...

The AC sealers work in this manner -

When the sealant comes in contact with atmospheric moisture - humidity - it hardens. This is good, as long as you never open your system.

Should you need to replace any major component, you will introduce moisture into the entire system, and all exposed sealant will harden.

Depending on the sealant and how long you have the system open while swapping components, it can harden in all your system's components.

You will then be faced with big $$$$$ to replace all your clogged components, not just the one you initially needed to replace. Frowner

As a stop gap fix for a system scheduled for total replacement, okay, go ahead.

But for a system you intend to keep, AC sealant is to be very seriously avoided!!!

For an AC forum discussion on sealants, go here:

http://tinyurl.com/ynqek2

Larry
Last edited by lf-tp2511
A Hudson ... my advise .. and I;m going to do this myself ..so I;m interested in what you find ...is call the vendors and see what they recommend ..because R134A operates at different pressures compared to what the old R12 ... therefore this impacts condesor size and fan requirements and also the TXV up at the evaporator has to be changed. also the R134a has a different chemical make up so the hose material and seals have to be of a different material otherwise ..you will need more then sealant. I apologize for some generalization ..but my expertize is in commercial HVAC but the basics apply to an automobile system also. Same as the old R-22 to the new R410A in your home ..the two are really not compatible .. thats why the 134 coversion doesnt really get cold enough.

Ron
Earlier this summer I swapped condensers. I initially got 44 degree vent temps, but my system has taken a mind of its own and is now a PITA after a total Sanden compressor replacement and new expansion valve, all lines flushed - I now can only get about 65 degrees and my troubleshooting is not productive. Ho hum - just another Pantera challenge.

But the new parallel flow condenser did its job for a month or so and the install was pretty easy.

See details here:

http://tinyurl.com/29mu8b

I also retained R12 in my system, and suggest you do the same. there are many reasons why folks tell you to do the conversion to 134, but when you really read and learn about the REAL steps for such a conversion, it is apparent - at least to me - that R12 is still the way to go.

Get your license for EPA 609 online and you can buy all the R12 you want. Ebay off-season is about $15 a can. Surely there is one garage in your area that still does R12; take them your R12 cans and just pay for labor if you can't do it yourself.

I bought my own Robinair R12 recover-recycle-recharge machine for $100 from the local L-M dealer and am learning as I go.

Larry
quote:
Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
Hey Adams! I'm still happy with mine. Dual cross flow is important for efficency. I still have stock hoses with new ends. Be warned that the system runs at about 325 PSI. Mine holds 2 cans of 134a. No fancy switches... the only thing that releases the compressor clutch is the stock style freeze switch stuck in the evaporator and the dash mounted switch. The first can of refrigerant had oil and sealer in it. I think the sealer keeps the gas from leaking through the older hoses. Stay Cool Big Grin


Hey Pushbutton - What application is that? I know Mitsubishi, but do you have the year/model? Also is the condenser part of that application, or universal? Looks good, and if it WORKS that's even better!
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