Hi All, Happy New Year! I have a stock Pre-L 72 Pantera with Motorcraft 4300D D2ZF-AA carb. If I dont start the car every week the carb fuel bowl seems to evaporate and needs a lot of cranking to start the engine. If I start one day and turn around and start again the next day it fires right up. I'm thinking about adding an Electric fuel pump to just fill the carb bowl with a separate on/off switch. I will only use to prime the carb then turn off so need a flow-thru pump and probably 5.5psi rate? Has anyone done this for recommendations on type of pump, location of mounting pump and switch? Thanks for advice, not interested in switching to different carb/manifold or EFI. Thanks and Happy New Year! Ron
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Be careful - most of the electric pumps are much higher pressure - up to 60-70 Psi. You would have to run a pressure reduction and bypass set up.
You will be lucky to find one that is in the 5-7Psi seat pressure limit range for a conventional carb. I have not seen one.
Thanks Percy, I've found a couple that max to 5.5psi. Facet makes one but would prefer to hear if someone has already done this to their Pantera before proceeding. Thanks again!
I have all my cars set up this way, so never a problem with starting after they set for a length of time. Airtex makes a number of inline pumps with different pressure settings (available on Amazon). Choose one with 12 volts and 3-5 psi. On the Pantera, I installed it in the line between the tank and the mechanical pump. These pumps are designed to have fuel pulled through them by the mechanical pumps, so I have a toggle switch under the dash and turn it off after the cold start. If I should ever experience vapor lock in hot weather, I can turn on the electric to boost the fuel flow.
Holley Red pumps are designed for carbureted applications. I run one on my car. No issues
Thanks to both DWR46 and Tajon. Much appreciated. I was thinking of mounting switch on the console back by the cig lighter for easy wiring?, or toggle as suggested under dash. Thanks again, Ron
One last question if you don't mind. Did you mount high on the firewall close to where the fuel line comes out of the tank sending unit? Or, lower to the bottom before the gas line goes into the mechanical gas pump? Any photos would be much appreciated on mounting location. Thanks
Ron: The Airtex pumps are "inline" and, in the case of the Pantera can just be installed in the line from the tank to the pump. As I recall, it is quite short and easily supported the weight of the pump by making sure the line was secured at a couple of places along its travel. The Airtex pumps come with a Pre-filter, and you can remove it if you already have a good fuel filter in the system. This gives you a few additional inches to work with in the relatively tight quarters.
Rick, pumps & pumps for sure, nice setup. thanks for photos!
DWE46, I ordered an Airtex pump so should have no problem with setup. Thanks again!
I'm set up this way, i.e., an inline prime pump using the red Holley. A week to 10 days is all you will get without evaporation. Just turning the ignition switch to run primes the carbs, then when they are full, the pump shuts off.
I'm using the "electric fuel pump" feature on the Haas' Pantera-Electronics Ignition Controller that shuts the pump off when not needed while the car is running.
Jon is a bit of a genius, but don't tell him I said so. I'll never be able to deal with his ego.
Mine is located low, below the tank on the chassis along with a Fram canister filter. That was easiest access for me, under the car, rather then on top.
The fuel line is run between the tank and the shield to a red Holley regulator on the firewall, then to the Webers. The system is set to run 3 psi at the carbs but can be dialed up at the regulator on the firewall. So far I haven't found this necessary but haven't done any track days with the car yet.
There is an electronic fuel pressure gauge sender plumbed in that you can see here half way through the stainless fuel lines in the back. There are lots of combinations that you can go to but the threat of heat sink and vapor lock isn't down low near the pumps, it's up high so you need to have lots of "air" circulating around the lines.
You can see that gauge in this picture of the dash at 3 o'clock through the steering wheel spokes.
Attachments
Is that a paddle shifter arrangement on the dash ??? Or are they for something else ?
Sorry Steering wheel spokes ...
The red buttons? No. The one on the right is my engine start button. The one on the left is still vacant and available for use. I just haven't found something to use it for yet. They are attached to the steering wheel's rotating hub and run through a commutator.
Thanks PanteraDoug... Beautiful setup ....what a beast! I'm putting my elec. pump low on the frame, Still not sure where to mount the no off switch as only going to use for prime then shut off. I guess to be safe will tie into ignition switch with a relay. Was thinking of putting close to the cig lighter and but not enough amps on the cig wire. Also, it's a hot wire all the time... thoughts? Thanks, Ron
Mine is controlled by the Ignition Controller which "ramps" the EP down once the car is running.
Just turning the ignition to "run" without starting it and giving it a few minutes for the carb floats to adjust after a long time off and not running, is fine for me.
Webers don't have the same issues with drying out the gaskets like Holley's do since the reservoir is cast into the bottom portion of the carb. You just need to verify that the inlet valves aren't stuck and if you switch away from the Viton seat valves to the glass ball valves that 99% likely eliminates that issue altogether.
As you can see by the interior shot, I did a lot of work cleaning up the mess on the console and dash.
I just had a traumatic experience in finding a nice location for the electric parking brake switch location. It took me weeks to decide where to put it.
It eventually went into the location for the instrument panel dim switch which par for the course, after ONLY 50 years, kicked the bucket.
4460 isn't a beast. It's just misunderstood and needs nurturing, sensitivity. acknowledgement of it's sophistication and potential. Is that too much to ask?
Ron: My memory is a little sketchy, but I believe we found a wire that was hot with the ignition ON in the area of all the relays under the drivers side kick panel. We took our power from there and mounted a toggle switch under the dash to the left of the steering wheel, then easily ran a power wire to the pump under the carpet beside the drivers seat and through the engine access panel. The Airtex pumps use very little amperage, so you should have no issues with circuit capacity.
DWR46, Perfect, thanks!
Panteradoug, certainly understand nurturing, sensitivity and potential. Very nice!
Maybe a button instead of a switch? Should only need to run the pump for a few moments. Avoid the chance of forgetting to shut it off?
Larry, good idea, button switch would certainly prevent leaving the toggle switch on. Was thinking if I had a vapor lock (VL) situation again the toggle might be good. I had VL happen several summers ago and was not good. I put some heat shielding on the fuel lines and hasn't happened again, but if it did leaving the fuel pump on until the engine ran/cooled might be a good option. It's a flow-thru electric pump so can leave on or off depending on what I want.
Thanks for your good recommendation.. Ron