Emergency wiring and switch

Your wires are like mine and all separete. The connections are the bundle,in the lower right of the pic. NOT in the square plug. I have an old switch that will not stay in all the time. It has about 10 single male terminals sticking out the rear. Need a pic?

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
Your wires are like mine and all separete. The connections are the bundle,in the lower right of the pic. NOT in the square plug. I have an old switch that will not stay in all the time. It has about 10 single male terminals sticking out the rear. Need a pic?

I have to disagree. The white connector mates with a red connector with short pigtails that connect to the hazard switch. The wires are the right color for the hazard loom. Not sure what the tied up bundle is.

Sorry Bill, but Dave is right :-), the big connecter is for the missing emergency wiring that Dave is mentioning. The tied up bundle is for the speedometer.

If someone has a picture of how the wires are attached to the switch AND the connector I may fix a new wire set myself

- I still need the switch - any leads?

Thanks/Kristian

Ok - I found the switch, I think.BMW 2002 hazard switch

Still looking for the wiring.

quote:

The white connector mates with a red connector with short pigtails that connect to the hazard switch.

Both halves of the connector on the early cars are white.


Kristian,

The replacement switch is slightly different than the original early switch. Here are the pin connections and wire colors for the replacement switch:

#30: Green (+12v from fuse #8, always hot)
#15: Red (+12v from fuse #12, hot only with ignition switch in run position)
R: Light blue (right turn signals)
L: Light blue/black (left turn signals)
#31: Black (ground)
#49: Yellow (+12v to flasher)
#49a: Pink/black (from flasher)
#59d: Not used

Pin #59d is used in the later cars, but not on the early cars. It is for an instrument light and can be connected to the yellow/black instrument light wiring, if desired.

In your picture, there appears to be a blue wire that is connected to the red wires and another pin of the white connector. It also appears that there is a yellow wire that is connected to the green wire, and that the yellow wire has been cut. There should be a yellow wire that is in a pin by itself. A jumper between the red and yellow wires would be a proper connection if the car did not have a hazard warning switch (which you stated it did not). This blue jumper wire would need to be cut or removed. A clarification of the wires in this white connector would be helpful.

John

Thanks John - that's a great help.

And you are right - there is a blue jumper wire between the yellow going to the flasher relay and the reds from fuse #12.
I guess I'll buy the replacement switch, cut the jumper and route the wires as you suggest ?

- I wonder why they would save a few bucks and leave out the hazard lights? :-).

Kristian

quote:

I wonder why they would save a few bucks and leave out the hazard lights? :-).

Kristian,

I think that you answered your own question.

The hazard warning system may have been a US DOT (Department of Transportation) requirement.

I see that there is a short piece of yellow wire connected to the green wire. Mine has that too. If you were to jumper the green and yellow wires (sans the hazard switch), then the turn signals would work even with the key turned off. The factory may have originally connected it that way (for cars without the hazard switch), and later found their "mistake". Then the yellow wire was simply cut and a new pin was crimped onto it, along with the blue jumper wire.?? Just a guess.

Perhaps someone on this board has the other half of the connector (with the wires attached) that they no longer need???

John

Glad you got it worked out. The truth be known, I pulled my old switch out through the hole and changed the wires to the new one...one at a time. Sorry for the misinformation. The wiring harness is the only thing NOT rebuilt on my car. Bill 1362

Bill, I've done some work with E-flasher switches and found there are two different kinds used in Panteras- mixed not necessarily by date. Type 1 uses a metal 'cage' that holds the two parts of the switch body together while type 2 uses 10 plastic detents within the switch body. The first can easily be disassembled and altered to work again, while the second cannot without a LOT of trouble, and the guts of the two are quite different. They work identically but nothing interchanges except the dash attach ring and the bulb.
Next, the BMW and Alfa Spyder e-switches seem very similar to Panteras, but some of the embossed wire numbers on the back vary. Dunno if the internal construction is similar but an Alfa switch works fine in my 72-1/2 Pantera L. Note all this adapting may be for nothing 'cause the stock e-switch is a part recently reproduced by Wilkinson, priced quite cheaply.

Earlier I hooked the new emergency flasher up as John suggested above - and it works perfect when the ignition is ON - when the ignition is OFF, and the emergy flasher is activated, it is not flashing but constantly on ??

Any suggestion to what I've done wrong??

Kristian

quote:

I have an old switch that will not stay in all the time.

That's a pretty easy problem to solve with the old switches. Just follow this procedure:
http://www.banzairunnerpantera...tes_hazardswitch.htm

I don't think it's a bad switch - It's brand new. Probably something in the wiring.

My car didn't come with an emergency switch from the factory so I recently added it - the original wiring was prepared for it.

Problem is that it flashes fine when the ignition is on, but as soon as I turn the ignition off, it stops flashing, i.e.; the signals stay on?

Kristian,

Do the turn signals work without having the key on? If so, then the green (#30) and the red (#15) wires are reversed.

Another possibility is that the green wire may not be connected to the #8 fuse, or the #8 fuse somehow got connected to the "ignition on".

John