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Engine build… just because I want to…

LeMans850iLeMans850iMember

I think the only two pieces I did not tear apart,  redo or replace are the engine and the transmission..

Now the transmission is doing fine at this point and the Engine too.

But I have a tendency just to take everything apart  when I get something and the Pantera is not any different..

The 351 Cleveland in the car is running good.. starts idles and runs perfectly… and will stay in the car until the new engine is complete.. So if anybody’s interested to buy and wants to listen to it, let me know..

I did have plans for a different kind of Engine  variant I wanted to put in the car, but my idea did not get received very kindly by a friend I value, when I told him  what I going to do,  in his response I Actually think there was some underlying bodily Harm Insinuated…

I think 3 months should be plenty to get it done.. but I was wrong before 🤪

Regardless, first part I bought:

Trick Flow Cleveland heads….. showing up tomorrow 😛

that’s right… the shiny part first….

What a weak start.. but I gotta start somewhere…

IMG_3165

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Last edited by LeMans850i
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panteradougpanteradougMember

The casting number denotes a 73 or 74 Ford model year 351c block.

The standard 2v 351c would have the same casting ID of D2AE-CA but would only have 2 bolt mains. Some 4v Ford builds use the 2 bolt main blocks also.

The 351C CJ block would have the same casting numbers but have 4 bolt main caps.



The XE id blocks came about because the 4 bolt blocks under extreme racing stresses would develop cracks in the blocks webbing near the center main bearing cap and run up the side of the closest piston bores.

That indicates flexing or twisting in the block. The XE blocks are thicker in the bearing webs and where the oil pan bolts up are solid and not hollowed out on top of that "rail". So that in effect builds a "reinforcing girdle" into the block to reduce or eliminate the block flexing under extreme stress of racing.

The cylinder walls are also thicker so they can take larger over bores.

So all of that good added strength adds about 35-40 pounds to the overall weight of the block.

Those are sometimes referred to as Australian blocks since they were all cast in Australia and have the Geloong foundry casting ID on top of the rear of the block near the oil sender port.

Sometimes they are also referred to as NASCAR blocks since that was the primary block used there racing the Cleveland.

They definitely are hefty for sure.



Some of the "unlimited racers" have success with the Fontana aluminum block which is about 80 pounds lighter then the standard iron Ford Cleveland block.



There are still some new XE blocks around occasionally but generally speaking folks want a lot for them, like $5,000 ish.

For most useage in a street car, a production Cleveland block will do fine but when you go to overbore them, keep in mind that back in the day Ford recommended only over boring them .002", which really is just a hone.

So they tend to be just a little thin so sonic testing is a good idea before deciding what to over bore them to?

Last edited by panteradoug
LeMans850iLeMans850iMember

I bought this engine… it was Supposedly a rebuild with low miles on it but something went wrong…

I do not know what was done to this engine or what is inside.. all I know is that it did some noise between tick and clack. I did not hear it running…IMG_3181

I have not gone inside to determine what it is because I bought it just today..It’s a gamble… Let’s see if I get lucky..IMG_3180

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R rene4406Member
@LeMans850i posted:

I’ll try to find out tomorrow…

“…. another Project Roland.. lol” just tell me what am I doing with my life if I don’t twiddle on something… I wouldn’t know.🤔

you saw it… laying on the floor under the car , all dirty… Big smile on my face…

That was when I was young, now I'm still dirty, I'm still smiling, but I'm not on the floor under the car anymore, I have a lift, it's much less tiring and much better for my old back.

Last edited by rene4406
LeMans850iLeMans850iMember

I took one head off: it has forged aluminum pistons,  flat top, CNC’ed to fit, recently bored cylinders 4.03, seems like the ring gap was not set properly some marks, but nothing terrible.. certainly didn’t run very long since rebuilt.

seems to be 3.8” stroke..

Hydraulic flat lifters, Manley pushrod guides, Harland roller rockers,

On the lifter bores i wanted to do “the upgrade” anyway..

I have not looked at the bearings yet if the lifter issues killed the bottom end…

the cylinder heads… big wow… forgot to make pics but they are super custom!

4 V heads with pinned inserts in the intake to make them the size of the 2V very nicely done ✅  head also is machined for the rocker studs which are new as well… that was quite the positive surprise….

Last edited by LeMans850i

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