Attached is a picture of the cowling on the front of my engine, I'm removing it to work on the motor. Do you all run with both the cowling AND the firewall cover? (The upholstered fiberglass part from that faces the passenger compartment) I have both on 2811, just wondering if everyone has the same or is the cowling redundant? What say you? 
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I would say yes. It server 2 purposes. It helps blocking heat and noise. As it is made of metal it also protects from anything trying to fly off the engine that would easily go through fiberglass.
IMHO, the steel hatch cover is mandatory, the upholstered fiberglass panel is optional, but your cabin will be ugly without it 😉
Larry
Thank you both, that's what I needed to hear!
...I Absolutely Agree! You must keep the Metal Cover in Place, this is part of the 'Firewall'! There has been More than One Incident of the 'Stock' Alternator EXTERNAL Fan/Pulley, Blowing-Up, under High Revs!! The Metal Cover was heavily Dented. Protected Driver!!
To Hold that Cover in Place, I recommend using 'Allen Button-Head' Stainless 'Machine Screws', WITH a 'Flang' built-in. 'Button-Head Flang Screws' (find them on Ebay). These Make it Very Convenient in Removing-Installing these Screws using a 'T' Handle Allen Wrench! Because when installing...you can 'Hang' the screw off the end of the Wrench, slide it in and Rotate Tool, much easier to line-up with Threads in the Nut. The Flang replaces the need for a Washer, that can and will, accidentally drop and be lost in the Abbiss of chassis holes!! Don't use Washers?? It's best to do so, because the Mounting holes are much Larger than the Screw.
...I found that 10-32 NF Machine Screws, can replace the Metric Screws, and work with the 'Captured' Nuts, Perfectly.
With the Factory, Tiny Machine screws with a 'Hex-Head' (No Washer)...I Never liked Reaching-In with a Tiny Socket on a small Ratchet handle or even a Nut-Driver, again No Washer. Some parts would Allways Drop-Off, and could be Lost, Forever!! Be Mindful of the Chassis Holes, Once the Fiber-Glass Cover is Removed. Be reminded, Stainless Steel Screws can NOT be retrieved with a Magnet! You would have to Use a Extended Flex 'Grabber Tool', Inspection Mirror, and a Light Source.
I highly recommend changing over to the 100 AMP Alternator, with the Internal Cooling Fan, and Internal Voltage Regulator. Protected FAN and Get rid of the External 'Junk' Voltage Regulator! IMO
MJ
And, as an aside, there are 2 different cover sizes. Earlier cars had a narrower opening.
Its called the 'engine access cover' and without it, the average driver's elbow comes perilously close to the fan pulley during gear shifts. Hex-bolts or allens- makes zero difference if you bump them when the engine's running. I chamfered the pulley holes and use flat-head allens with blue Lock-tite for 3/16" more clearance to the cover.
Excellent information! Thank you all!!
FYI Brian, you have a 140 amp Powermaster alternator with internal regulator, so no need to "upgrade" to the 100 amp unit 
Thanks Dave!! Good to know...
@dave2811 posted:FYI Brian, you have a 140 amp Powermaster alternator with internal regulator, so no need to "upgrade" to the 100 amp unit
...The Point I was Making, that You Missed, is the Elimination of the EXTERNAL Fan!! The Part that Blows-Up!
MJ
No MJ, I got that part...thanks!
My car was missing the sheet metal cover when I bought it. No one ever mentioned that it was supposed to be there until a year or so ago?
I have the car for 35 years. My elbow is still intact.
@BrianH posted:No MJ, I got that part...thanks!
...NO BrianH...I was referring to the statement 'Quoted' from the posting of @dave2811, Just to be Clear. And panteradoug...I'am Glad Your Elbow survived!
All the best.
MJ
@marlinjack posted:...NO BrianH...I was referring to the statement 'Quoted' from the posting of @dave2811, Just to be Clear. And panteradoug...I'am Glad Your Elbow survived!
All the best.
MJ
ME too! 
