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Engine hard starting won't idle long

H hotstuffMember
My engine is timed at 14 initial and 34 total advance, I have a 650cfm holley that was rebuilt because it had a blown power valve (flame came out of carb when I put on a heat shield for carb). Car is now hard to start, and when it does it runs a few minutes then pops a few times and dies ( same prob before and after carb rebuild). After that it won't start until cooled down ( not overheating and carb not problem, I checked). I have an electronic ignition (Motorcraft). Could it be the ignition? A solenoid? The same problem before carb rebuilt. Are there any ideas? i really don't want to buy a new ignition if I don't have to, but I will to fix it.
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belgiumbarrybelgiumbarryMember
i had a Holley on my Corvette and remember there are protection valves for the power valve . Some kind of one-way valve which closes on a blow back. Should check indeed your ignition....fouled plugs ? i had the experience that my ignition system ( should check brand but think original ) needs voltage , not amps... with a bad alternator i can start the engine perfect without any notice of something but the 12V from the battery isn't enough to run revs....it needs the 14+Volts from the alternator.
noquarternoquarterMember
First test:
Look at plugs. Soothed, means too rich carb or ignition problem. Very clean means too lean carb
http://www.tuningmadeeasy.com/.../spark-plug-reading/

Second test: When hard to start, push accelerator to the floor and keep it there, if the engine starts easily after a few seconds, carb is too rich.

Could it be your power valve again? Old Holleys don't have power valve blow out protection. Just guessing, need feedback on the tests mentioned above Smiler
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
Hotstuff, with your conversion Motorcraft ignition, remember to double-pin the distributor drive gear on ALL Ford distributors. It's not the ignition load that cracks and shears the pin... FWIW, sometimes, the drive pin only PARTIALLY shears, retarding the timing almost to the point of not running. If you still haven't found the problem, pull the distributor and look through the pin's opening to verify the gear isn't twisted; eg- one side only sheared. If you can't see through, be very sure the gear does NOT have a spring-pin made of many turns of sheet steel; those pins are even weaker in impact than a std thick-wall roll pin.
dave2811dave2811Member
quote:
Originally posted by Hotstuff:
O.k., where could I find a good dependable ignition for my pantera. Msd has one without the box for the cleaveland (everything in distributor). Has anyone heard of it?

The MSD 8350. I have one. It works great with vacuum advance and adjustable centrifugal advance, but be aware that it is a very tall distributor, and will not fit under the engine screen (at least on my car it doesn't). Gave me an excuse to make a "dog house" on my screen to hide the hole.

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noquarternoquarterMember
George, forgive me if it's none of my business, but your picture looks like an engine fire waiting to happen. A plastic fuel filter, hoses attached with non-positive action clamps, and right next to the distributor.

Every car I have has braided Russell type hose where fuel is under pressure. That may be over doing it, but a proper metal fuel filter from Summit and decent clamps like the one you have between hose and pipe would make me sleep better at night.

And is it resting or sometimes touching the acc cable? If so that could lead to a leakage or even a stuck-open throttle blade.

Worst case scenario, I know, just my $0.02
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