Engine very cranky!! 😩

Hard starting on an otherwise healthy engine can be as simple as cleaning your ground wire contacts.

Pull the ground wire off the front trunk stud and make sure everything is bright and shiny. Make sure the flat woven ground strap from the chassis to the ZF is likewise mounted to bright and shiny metal. If you have a chassis to engine block ground, never a bad thing, check those connections, also.

check your large gauge starter wire connections at the starter motor and on the firewall-mounted starter relay.

if nothing improves after performing those tasks at least you will know your connections are solid and then you can proceed on to other troubleshooting steps.

Larry

Hi Larry! That sounds worth a try, thank you!

When she cranks though, the starter motor turns really good, not sluggish at all, so I can’t believe it has to do with the starter motor. And I keep the battery fully charged.😁

...From My Experience, also check:

1. Choke! Check closing and opening. When COLD, the Choke should Never be COMPLETLY Closed, it should be Open ONLY a 1/8" Minimum.

2. Lean, open Idle MIXTURE screw(s) 1/4 turn. BEFORE attempting this, do a Test by Pumping the Accelerator 2-3 Times, then Start the Engine. Fuel Pressure?

3. Weak Spark!...Inspect, Cap and Rotor. Check and re-gap Spark Plugs. AND, 'If' just one Spark Plug WIRE is NOT making a good connection (as in NOT Snapped onto it's Plug, completely) This will cause Hard Starting, and possibly, a back-fire 'Pop'. Take the Time to Inspect ALL 8 Wire Plugs, at the Spark Plugs and at the Dist. Cap!

4. Test for weak Coil.

...since the Engine ran well until recently, indicates a problem increasing over time. I go with Spark Plugs!! I run Autolites #25 gapped a .045".

As Larry advised, a Bad Ground WILL cause a 'Weak Spark'. Last, it's been a known fact that a Starter Motor that Draws 'Excessive Current', WILL ROB Voltage From the Coil...again, Weak Spark, but Only upon Starting! Check this with a Volt Meter AT THE COIL, as You run the Starter!! There should be a 12v 'Bypass' Wire from the Solenoid to the + side of the Coil. This bypasses the Ballast Resister, Only when Starting. Check for it...there should be a Minimum of 10.0 Volts on that Coil.

"...How can You have a Good 'Positive', when You do NOT have a Good 'Negative'!?"

Good Luck with it!

MJ

Wonderful! Thanks MJ. Thanks to you and Larry, I have some good homework to do 👍

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Hi William

The bi-metal "element" (looks like a spring) inside the round black choke cover is a fairly common service item. It is supposed to wind & unwind as it warms-up or cools down. With age & heat cycles it tends to wind & unwind less.

Pull the air cleaner lid so you can see the position of the choke butterfly. At room temperature, after you stomp the throttle pedal once, the butterfly should close. If the bi-metal element is "bad" the butterfly won't close enough.

-G

Hi George! Good to “see” you. That sounds good! I have a plan - I think I’ll check the choke and then hit the ground!! 😁😁

Well, the Edelbrock site said to tune the choke 2 or 3 times a year. I’ve never done it but this doesn’t look good. I think you were right George… Looks like my choke is dead 😩

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As you rotated the black "thermostatic coil housing", the choke connector rod wasn't moving (red arrow in picture). Something behind or inside the choke housing has become disconnected or has broken.

-G

Yup! That’s my next step.👍

Well hello! I’m happy to report the problem is fixed. It wasn’t the choke and it wasn’t the ground, it was the positive connections at the ammeter! Very corroded. I did record the choke doing it’s thing and it was pretty neat! Here it is in fast forward - 2 minutes in 5 seconds.

Well done ‼️

I love a happy ending. 👍👍

Larry

...BRAVO!!! Appreciate the Update. Now all of us learn from one more Experience.

Now DRIVE!!

MJ

Thanks guys!

I am curious, for those with my similar setup - do you normally pump the gas pedal when cranking the engine to start??

Yes, a carbureted engine will require a squirt or two of fuel prior to starting.  

Each engine, starter motor, carburetor tune will behave differently; I do one full press to the floor and then hold a second press about halfway and turn the key.

YMMV

Larry

You have to stomp the accelerator pedal at least once, this takes spring tension off the choke linkage & allows the fast idle cam & choke butterfly to flop into position.

-G

Thanks guys, unfortunately this didn't work, I need to pump as I crank. But only takes 4 cranks now.

...OPEN Up the Idle MIXTURE Screws MORE, 1/4 to 1/2 Turn CCW. Inspect for Any Possible Vacuum Leaks!

MJ

Ah ok, will try that. Thanks MJ.