Has anyone replaced their broken turn signal? I wonder if this is a big process or not. The turn signal in my red 5S has been broken for years and just now my Group 4 turn signal broke, so its a bit annoying now with both broken. To activate the turn signal I now have to hold it in the left or right position because it will not stay in that position. Thanks.
Is "sweet ol" Bill" still around?... He performed a miracle on my ignition, he is a jedi master no question.
take the turn signal mechanism apart and it is easy to fix, many times it is just moved and the actuator cam is out of sink.
I had the pleasure of meeting Bill and his wife a few years ago. He had repaired my switch 20 years ago when I was told to leave it on his door step and to pick it up a week later for a small fee and it worked fine until a few years ago. I emailed him and he agreed to meet with me at his home. He gave me a few plastic parts and springs and I was able to file the parts he gave me to get my switch operating again. I was able to open the switch because he previously cut the housing and then drilled and tapped it so it could be reassembled when he fixed it many years ago before. I have a drawing from Sobill on what he had me do so if you want pictures of the drawing PM me. Louie
Thanks for the info. Just to clarify, it seems something mechanical happened with the arm portion because it will not stay in place when I move the arm for right of left turn. However it blinks so the electronics are ok. Maybe I’ll take a look to see if it’s easy to get at.
Yes, there are two plastic levers that look like pin ball levers in the switch. They are joined by a spring that keeps them up against another center piece. If the spring or connection where the spring meets the plastic lever fails the turn signal arm will not return on its own however the electronics still work.
Their may be more than one type of mechanics used for the turn indicator actuator. Mine does not resemble yours as far as I can tell by the photos.
Perhaps, mine is from a 72 pre L
mine is also pre-L are you showing all the parts? their should be a red cam actuated part?
I am only showing the plastic lever. Bill said the hole in the lever that the spring attaches to often breaks so he drills the lever and adds a wire loop for the spring to attach to. I don't have images or drawings of the other internal parts. Sorry
I had something similar on my 74L, including the high beam only coming on if I held it in place. When I had a look the mechanism had started to come away from the housing. So when I held it in the right place everything worked. Some epoxy glue and some sticky fingers later all fixed. I didn't even need to disconnect the wiring.
Hopefully yours will be as easy