I received the front spoiler couple weeks ago (thank you very much again John!!) and finally had the opportunity to try to hold it on
Perfect, absolutely stunning!
I am going to make a few modifications on it, but they won’t change the looks of it..
I received the front spoiler couple weeks ago (thank you very much again John!!) and finally had the opportunity to try to hold it on
Perfect, absolutely stunning!
I am going to make a few modifications on it, but they won’t change the looks of it..
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Very nice.
wow, I like it. Mine's sitting in the garage waiting for me!
Let us know how you do the final attachment if you don't mind.
Thanks,
John
Wow I like that! Who supplied that? Do you know what the ground clearance will be when attached?
Who's the old guy on the floor..? Almost a game of where's Waldo, no really, looks good,!
@Lane hawley posted:Who's the old guy on the floor..? Almost a game of where's Waldo, no really, looks good,!
😊
As I recall, the main criticism of the Revson spoiler was not necessarily how low it is but how far forward it projects?
It is a nice design and really is more then just a spoiler. It is more of a lower nose extension.
As such, it projects just far enough to make entering and exiting driveways a certain obstacle to the things longevity. Living with it in reality on a day to day basis is the problem. For a racecar it MIGHT be a different story but if I am not mistaken, I think there was a journalist reviewer that suggested that it might be better to make it out of a more flexible material?
Back then, things like flexible plastic bumper covers didn't yet exist but I suspect that was the thinking on the suggestion?
I know that when I got my 73 Pantera, the sheet metal under the radiator support was already torn up pretty good. So extending anything down there requires the acceptance of the inevitable that any spoiler is just living on "borrowed time" and somethings gonna' get ya'?
I believe when RickP (he owns a body and paint facility ) mounts spoilers (and he has done at least one Revson), he uses rivnuts into the lower cowling, and screws from the outside.
This makes it very easy to remove it, if it is required for any reason. Hopefully he or JFFR will chime in….
Rocky
@rocky posted:I believe when RickP (he owns a body and paint facility ) mounts spoilers (and he has done at least one Revson), he uses ribs, nuts into the lower, cowling, and screws from the outside.
This makes it very easy to remove it, if it is required for any reason. Hopefully he or JFFR will chime in….
Rocky
Without having one here to study, my first reaction to mounting the Revson spoiler or any other for that matter would be to use Rivnuts/nutcerts into the sheet metal and screws into them.
That seems the obvious solution but it isn't going to solve the issue of "curb damage" pulling them out, bending the sheet metal and damaging the spoiler.
These cars are so low in the front that even with the US coil spring spacers to raise the car they are still subject to serious damage caused by things like raised manholes covers, entrance curbs with the wrong pitch, parking lot stop curbs and driveway entrances with no consideration for under car clearances.
I've got the "factory GTS fiberglass spoiler" and it has survived so far with a couple of scrapes here and there but I think that is because it doesn't project out in front to the point of the front bumpers and stays basically just under the radiator support sheet metal?
Finally I got some “spare” time to work on my front spoiler project…
I got some Marine plywood 3/4” thick and traced the recess on the center section of spoiler… (I’m “wooding” now) cut the shape out and also rounded the corners to match the fiberglass..
next I will lighten that panel and give it some attachment points for brackets to bolt to the frame…
I need a front spoiler... Mine looks terrible.
These look great !...
Bottom brackets… they are still getting 45’s put on before Powder Coating
and I’m also making nut plates out of the flat steel 1.5 inches long and threaded to live inside the structure. Originally, I intended to use a router and recess the steel bar into the wood, but the height is perfect the way it is!
The fiberglass is not sealed against the wood yet just glued in place
The right side was a pretty good fit from the beginning the left side had to be reworked with the heat gun…
they will be attached on the furthest, front edge and the far rear..
The bottom brackets are very sturdy…👍
and the best… Same measurements left and right all the way around
Looks like you have plenty of angle, should stay on the Cat. Larry
Mounting hardware M6
every bolt with large area washer, and rubber washer
aluminum square nut plates glued in position with polyurethane windshield glue
one of the absolute beauties with a spoiler mount like this is that you can undo all the bolts and the spoiler does not fall off… It still sits on the steel brackets and you lift it off with ease… obviously mounting it makes life a lot easier this way….
I can put the spoiler on in under two minutes,…
If you'd like to improve the function of your Revson air-grabber a little with nothing showing from the outside, there were a couple of side pieces around the sides of the radiator on the early cars that are often missing. They were to maximize air from the front going thru the radiator. Then to help a little more, you seal off the perforations in the lower crossmember and extend the bottom of the Revson with a flat sheet all the way back to the radiator mount. Its like 1/5 of a belly pan.
The last step is to add a simple right angle piece about an inch deep below the radiator. This causes air moving under the nose to tumble and induces a low pressure area right behind the rad outlet, producing a suction. Same idea as Porsche used on the 914 to max airflow around the engine. Theirs was a stiff rubber strip. All this actually reduces engine temp a little and gets better the faster you go.
I also hole-sawed 2" OD holes in the added stiffening braces from Ford that attach the inner fender panels to the upper nose section, to provide a little more air flow out of the radiator past the front wheels. Anything that increases rad' exhaust out the wheel openings minimizes air flow and drag under the floor and shrinks the big flow out the rear window opening, thus lessening our giant rear swirl a bit. And all this is made from scrap and is cheap besides not showing .
@bosswrench Great tips… I’m going that route once I start working on the air extraction hood… I know there is the opinion that the extraction does not work, but there is a 110° turn in the airflow…vs. 35° out the hood vent It must do something positive… I do have the lay down aluminum radiator..
Air extraction front hoods work well- if they're the size of those on GT-40s! The little bitty hood extractors in mine and others do work but their surface area is so small compared to the surface of the radiator, the amount of hot air you get out is not much even if you duct them from the rad shroud.
And GT-40-sized vents with their ducts take nearly all the small storage space available in the front trunk and you have to cut out most of that multi-curve front end stiffener panel.
This is the size I believe Jack is talking about. This is a McLaren I had, this flowed huge abouts of air, so much that it would cook the driver and some tried to divert the air to the sides.
This was one of the solutions to get the air around the driver, same car.
Right-o, Tom! That reminds me of a highly uncomfortable ride I had in a 350-Chevy powered Manta Can-Am roadster. I was a little taller than the windshield and the hot air blast in my face was close to painful.
100%! It was miserable, even if you pipped in cold air into the foot wells it never seemed to be enough, the rush of hot air over the car and the car breaking through the air formed a cacoon, shake and bake! But it was still loads of fun!
You may not be old enough to remember early '50's British roadsters, but the exact opposite thing happened in Winter. Your legs and hips benefitted from what they called "heaters", but your upper parts- even with side curtains and the thin cloth top got little protection from outside icy blasts. But as you say, we didn't know any better so it was fun.
Now back to DeTomasos....
that conversation it totally fine with me.. love to hear story’s from the “good old days” 👍
Well, unless I cut into the trunk/frunk structure (and headlight tube) there is not much room going backwards but I will try to “bow” down over the headlight tube … wide as the radiator core and start the opening shortly after the fan shroud …. The leading edge should have a little ramp going up....creating a low pressure area because I can’t drop the rear lip down
That’s all the room there is I guess
make some arts and craft with cardboard first…
great job Roland! Glad I got to see it in person!!
Relocated the adjustment light brackets… I didn’t want them to be part of the spoiler… if I hit something it’s hopefully contained to the spoiler..