Hard to start when car is hot! HELP

I replaced my battery with a sealed unit (900 cranking amps), installed a 100 amp alternator from Gary Hall and wrapped my stock starter in an aluminum heat shield wrap (J.C. Whitney, $34). No more problems. I also have header wrap, but I haven't decided to install yet.

I had the same deal with my car (made me shake just going to the gas station and turning the car off). But after getting a high torque starter, now I don't have any problems. Sounds like the heat shield works too. Either that or just park it on a hill to push start, or have the wife push from the rear.

I had the same problem on my car. After I replaced the voltage regulator and thoroughly cleaned the ground strap wire from the ZF and installed a new ground wire from the battery...the problem has gone away!!

This problem has a special place in my heart since it was the very first trouble shooting I did with my Pantera...and years later it's still conquered!! YEAH!!!

Bob Eaton

I agree with Bob I had the same problem,you
will be amazed how much better it is. Must have a clean spot for the ground, it took me a few times to find a good spot. Lloyd Butfoy

If this happens only when the engine bay is hot, you can assume your starter is fried. I recommend the high-torque mini starter available from any Pantera specific vendor. The generic Ford 5.0 liter high torque starter from your local parts store will not work! (I learned with a $160 lesson). If this problem has nothing to do with temperature, I concur with the ground problem theory. You might also want to check the condition of the cable from the battery, especially if it's the original. Good Luck. Bob R. Tipo874@aol.com

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Originally posted by Bob R.:
If this happens only when the engine bay is hot, you can assume your starter is fried. I recommend the high-torque mini starter available from any Pantera specific vendor. The generic Ford 5.0 liter high torque starter from your local parts store will not work! (I learned with a $160 lesson). If this problem has nothing to do with temperature, I concur with the ground problem theory. You might also want to check the condition of the cable from the battery, especially if it's the original. Good Luck. Bob R. Tipo874@aol.com

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I guess there's exceptions to every case. I only had my problem when the car was hot...

I may also add, when checking the grounding on your car don't forget the look over the central ground behind the dash which Jack DeRyke always mentions along with all the connections on your starter. If all the inexpensive fixes don't fix your problem...then look to replacing the starter.

Bob Eaton

Thanks for all the advise, I will start work ASAP. Great to have a resource like this to call upon.

R

I had the same hot start problem, especially after installing new headers. Fixed it with a high torque mini-starter.

IN THE NOSE COMPARTMENT THE BATTERY GROUND GOES TO THE FRAME, RELYING ONLY ON THE FRAME TO GROUND THE STARTER, I NEVER LIKED THIS IDEA. IF ALL ELSE FAILS TRY RUNNING AN O GAGE CABLE FROM YOUR BATTERY MINUS SIDE ALL THE WAY DIRECTLY TO THE STARTER HOUSING, I KNOW THIS IS EXTREME, BUT HAS WORKED ON OTHER CARS.(YES I KNOW, THE PROBLEM WAS ONLY WHEN HOT) BUT AT LEAST REPLACE THAT "BRAIDED PIECE OF CRAP" GROUNDING WIRE IN THE REAR COMPARTMENT, THE ONE THAT GOES FROM THE TRANSAXLE TAIL TO THE FRAME NEAR THE REAR BULKHEAD. I USED AN O GAGE CABLE (10 TO 12 INCHES LONG,GIVES PLENTY OF PLAY FOR FLEXING) LIKE THE CABLE USED BY FORD TO CONNECT THE STARTER WITH SOLINOID. MY STOCK STARTER CRANKS FAST, FIRST TIME, EVERY TIME. GOOD LUCK. MARLIN JACK (209) 823-4709 MANTECA, CALIF. OR thejacks@cnmnetwork.com