Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump Install

...Turn the Engine over by hand to make sure the Excentric is at the 'Low' side Heel! Then Your not fighting the spring in the Pump to get it into position. The 351 Cleveland mounts the pump with One Bolt and One stud with a Nut. Install the Gasket First!
The stud is on the Bottom so You can hang the pump up on it then install the nut;(The mounting hole for the Stud is SLOTTED so You can put the Nut on first and then 'Hook' the Pump onto it)Loosely. Screw in the Bolt. You may want to put washers under the bolt and nut. Tighten Both up evenly!

NOW! My advice is to carry a spare electric pump ready to wire-in tempararily, just to get You Home!! Because the Holley Mech. Pump uses 'Pressed-in' Check Valves! One of them 'popped-out' inside My Holley Pump and left Me stranded until the Transport arrived! I've been useing the Electric ever since. I took the Holley apart and found what I described. When I get around to putting it back together; I will be sure to 'Lock-Tight' that check valve, when I press it back into it's Counterbore!!
Otherwise They are a Great, Beefy Pump!
Use a Fuel Filter on The PRESSURE Side. And use the Steel Can Style!! NOT a Plastic or those Glass see-through pieces of Crap! Try to place the Filter as far away from ALL heat sources as Possible. You've been warned!

Good-Luck with It!

Robb Mc Performance 351C mechanical fuel pump

made in the USA, good for up to 550 BHP

They also have a 1100 BHP version

Robb Mc publishes the performance curves of their pumps, ask another manufacturer for that data.

-G

I'm not a big fan of the Holley mechanical pumps either.

I helped put one on a friends Mustang and it only put out 4 pounds of pressure (Holley states it puts out 6.5-8 PSI).

The stock ford pump with 200,000 miles on it put out 5.5 PSI.

I'm with the rest of the guys. I had a Holley mechanical pump that didn't last 3000 miles. Broke internally. Left me stranded at the side of a busy highway with fencing on both sides. Thank god for cell phones! Google around a bit and you will see that these pumps are a shameful piece of $#!+. Don't buy one.

Later, Mooso.

Shoot I already bought the pump. Guess I can sell it and pick up the Robb one.

I am going to show my ignorance here with a series of questions:

1.)What is the best way to turn the engine over by hand?
2.)What is the "excentric?"
3.) How can I tell if the Excentric is at the lowside heel?
4.) How do I know if I have the pump in position correctly?
5.) Should I use any gasket sealer? Any suggestions?


Thank you!
Khan

1. Use a Breaker Bar with an extension and Socket at the Damper Bolt. Turn the engine over Clockwise!! So as NOT to Loosen the Bolt!
2. The 'Excentric' is a stamped steel 'Cam' the rides on the face of the Camshaft Sproket, at the front of the Camshaft. It actuates the Fuel Pump ARM!
3. By 'Trial and Error' when inserting the Pump into position. Unless you can see in 'there' with a Flashlite and a 'Inspection Mirror'.
4. There is Only ONE Correct way It can be Installed!
5. I recommend using the proper 'Paper/Cardboard' Gasket with a sealer on both sides (such as Permetex or an RTV). After cleaning all contact surfaces with Lacquer Thinner! Very Oily down there for JUST a Sealer!
6. With whatever Pump You go with; it is always recommended that a 'Moly-Lube' be put onto the Arm Contact Surface of Any NEW pump to aid in Breaking-In!

Thanks Marlin Jack!

I have been told that the low point on the fuel pump cam (eccentric) is when the distributor rotor is 180 degrees off the number 1 plug wire position and the crank timing pointer is on TDC.

FWIW, there are two different fuel pump eccentrics: the early one is concentric two-piece stamped steel while the later one is a one-piece hardened steel unit. The type of eccentric you have dictates the double-row cam chain you'll need if you decide to change things around. I read the stroke generated at the pump by the two eccentrics may be slightly different too, but haven't verified this.

I just installed a Holly pump.
Guess I'll be ordering my back up now.

I have had a Holley mechanical pump on my Pantera for ten years with absolutely no problems.
I have installed atleast 5-6 more on other people's Panteras with no problems either.

Ron

I recieved my new Robb MC 351 Fuel Pump but didn't realize it didn't include fittings. I have a stock fuel line set up (rubber coming from the tank and a partial metal line from pump to carb that links to a rubber line that connects to a split metal line to each carb bowl). I emailed the supplier asking if he had fittings that would allow me to fit this to my stock system. He replied:

"Sorry but we don't have fittings to connect to stock lines. The ports are 1/2" pipe (NPT). A hardware/autoparts store should be able to help."

I went to the parts store and I got a blank stare....one guy suggested I use air tool fittings. I could see how those fittings would work from the rubber line from the tank to the pump but I am not sure how I would reconnect the metal line from the pump to the carb? Any thoughts?
Thank You,
Khan

Well....this might be a moot point with the Robb MC 351. It is a beefy unit..beautifully made but it doesn't seem to clear the coolant hose and possibly the oil filter. Anyone get this to fit on their stock application?

The coolant hose should have a lot of room. Does your car still have the one piece rubber hose or does it look like this http://www.panteraplace.com/Te...Oil%20change%208.JPG ?

Mike

I can't tell from the picture you posted if I have one or the other. But here are some data points. The pump I removed is 2 inch 3/4 in diameter. The new holley which fits is 3 & 1/2 inch diameter. The new Robb MC is 4 & 1/2 inch diameter and it physically won't clear the coolant pipe/hose.

Khan,

I had tried to install one of the Robb Mc pumps and was not able to do it with the engine in the car at that time. After installing a new engine with the pump installed I had no problem. I think that if you drained the system and removed the hose it would be much easier. Putting the hose back on is not bad. I know what you are going through.

Regarding the fittings you can get them at a hardware store. What you need is a reducer from 1/2" pipe to 3/8" pipe and go from there.

Mark 5481 & 5461

Actually it isn't a hose issue. I have a metal tube that the pump has clearance issues with. I decided to go with my holley pump. Car started right up! Finally got to hear my new headers. Now all I need to do is get her aligned and some final touches on the carb and I have a driver!

Great news, maybe we will see you at the donut shop next Saturday? Did you see this? http://www.panteraplace.com/page234.htm These guys are amazing.

Mike