How low can you go???

Don't lower the chassis any further than the point where the lower control arms are paralell to the ground. Any further lowering should be accomplished via smaller diameter tires.

your friend on the DTBB

Could I lower it by welding the control arms in an inch higher in the chasis?

#2511 sits 3 3/4" off the ground at the rear crossmember, 4 1/4" at the front valance, and is 42 1/2" tall at the roof center front, 42"" tall at the roof center rear.

245/45x16' and 335/35x17"

Rear control arms are not parallel, but the uppers are Quella's adjustable which allows suspension geometry to still be correct.

It is the very rare driveway that ever scrapes the front mini GTS spoiler and it is about 5" above the ground.

No other clearance problems at these heights.

YMMV

Larry

PT if you put four of those space saver tires on the car that will get you down pretty low.
Hall makes a driver controllable ride height suspension.
It is primaraly for raising lowered cars up to get over curbs.
What I like about the kit is that it has enough presure in it so that when you pull up to a light you can make the car jump up and down.

DeTOM, did you measure the car with a half tank of gas and enough weight to compensate for you as a driver and if you want a passenger? If not, that will make a difference. Also, I agree with George about the rear crossmember being parallel to the ground, if you are concerned with maintaining your suspension setup. I would go further and say the half shafts should be parallel as well, its all part of the suspension. Rules of thumb when I was setting up my race cars. Changing stuff gets you into changing center of gravity, roll centers, camber change etc. etc.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
...Hall makes a driver controllable ride height suspension...it has enough presure in it so that when you pull up to a light you can make the car jump up and down.

I see you picked up on my drift George, sorry it's hard to write when you are laughing this hard!

quote:

I been lowering my car and now the lowest point on the car is still 4 and 1/2 inches off the ground,

How do you guys get a jack under?

Hall also made springs that lowered the car a full inch. Have you ever had any experiance with those?

quote:

Originally posted by MBLotus:
DeTOM, did you measure the car with a half tank of gas and enough weight to compensate for you as a driver and if you want a passenger? If not, that will make a difference. Also, I agree with George about the rear crossmember being parallel to the ground, if you are concerned with maintaining your suspension setup. I would go further and say the half shafts should be parallel as well, its all part of the suspension. Rules of thumb when I was setting up my race cars. Changing stuff gets you into changing center of gravity, roll centers, camber change etc. etc.

Changing the CG is what I am after. I would like to put most of the cars weight well below the axle centerline.

quote:

Originally posted by jwr2968:

quote:

I been lowering my car and now the lowest point on the car is still 4 and 1/2 inches off the ground,

How do you guys get a jack under?

There is a crossmember for the transmission mount in the rear and there is still plent of clearance on the front on the lower frame rail seam. Yes the usual jack points are now to low for me to get my floor jack under.

DT, do you know how close your butt will be to the pavement?
You won't need a jack, it will already be on the ground.

That's the idea Doug. I don't have lowered floor pans and with your pedal relocation scheme you are working out for me, I won't ever need them. I figure that as long as I keep the lowest point on the car at least three inches tall I will be able to still clear dead chipmunks in the road. If I can get the car low enough I will not need a chin spoiler. I know I have cut the amount of air traveling below the car significantly and I think that is partly why the car runs a little warmer. I do know it handles realy well now. I don't even slow down for turns now. Just keep the same speed. Maybe lift the throttle a smidgeon, but hardly ever use my brakes anymore unless I am coming to a full stop. This is the way my car handled before I had to jack it clear up in the air to put them super wide wheels and tires on it. I think I have figured out a way I can keep it lowered and yet still run the super wides. I don't know yet, but will keep you posted as I figure it out.

quote:

How do you guys get a jack under?

$20 pair of plastic Rhino Ramps - Pep Boys.

Or a length of 2"x12" lumber gives the extra height needed to get the jack underneath.

Larry

with your pedal relocation scheme you are working out for me,

The spacer is in. I have it at just under 2". It has a 1/8" taper to point the Master cylinder down to clear the hood.
It all seems fine.
Now, if you are going to ask me if it will work for you, I don't know. I do have 2" lowered pans, a 13" Lacarra wheel.
I don't see how the brake pedal itself can be moved left. The shaft of the pedal itself would need to be bent.
You may have to go see the plastic surgeon DT and have him alter you to fit the car. That may be easier. Tell your wife it's gonna make you prettier. She'll like the idea.

quote:

Originally posted by jwr2968:
...How do you guys get a jack under?

John, the jacking pad of my aluminum "racer jack" is only 3 3/8" off the ground when the jack is collapsed. The Jack is sold at Harbor Freight for around $100, and I've seen the exact same jack, re-badged by other companies and vendors, sell for up to $400.

your friend on the DTBB

quote:

Originally posted by DeTom:
Hall also made springs that lowered the car a full inch. Have you ever had any experiance with those?

The US cars have 1 inch spacers installed under the spring that can be removed with little trama. Since your's is European market car, I don't know if you have them or not.
I personally wouldn't even remove the spacers unless you want to install off road skid plates to the car. But that's just me. Maybe you'll like the sparks at night.

Doug, the car did not come with spacers but the Hall Ultras did. These raised the car way the heck up, and the tires would still rub. SO I took those back out. A skid pad would add too much weight but at the right place, down low. I have toyed with the idea of caster wheels on the low points but if one of them froze up it could start a fire.

Hall Ultra Wheels or Ultra Shocks?
Sounds like the tires are more of a problem then anything elese.
225/50-15 front and 275 to 295/50 to 55-15 rear on 8/10 campis is what fits.

Hall Ultra wheels. 245/40 17 and 335/35 17. My shocks are bright red Koni's. I think these are made on an island in New York, but not sure. I also found out my distrbutor is a Mallory not an accell like I thought. This other guy had one and said unilte is a mallory thingie.

quote:

John, the jacking pad of my aluminum "racer jack" is only 3 3/8" off the ground when the jack is collapsed. The Jack is sold at Harbor Freight for around $100, and I've seen the exact same jack, re-badged by other companies and vendors, sell for up to $400

George, thanks for the tip, I was just looking at the Summit Aluminum racer jack SUM-G1037 (3 3/4" height) for $78, thinking it was a good deal, but the Harbor Freight one sits lower still (quoted 3" on the HF site) and is on special at $69.99 )

Furthermore for anyone considering it (or another HF purchase) go to http://ww2.harborfreightusa.com/showpage_retail.taf?pageid=214 print off the coupon and save a further 20% on any single item .

P.S. Be aware the coupon changes, it is not always 20%, some times $5 or 10% off entire purchase. The current 20% one is valid to April 19.

With savings $56 for an Aluminum jack has to be a giveaway.

Julian

Once you've used the alloy jack, you'll never want to mess with a steel jack again. There's a big difference in weight. You can hold the alloy jack in one hand without strain.

Harbor Freight also has alloy jack stands. I recommend them too!