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Finally able to focus on 2044, engine is out after sitting unused for 10 or so years.  Wouldn't turn over..  some rust in a couple of the cylinders, also found a razor blade in the timing chain sprocket.. heads are open chamber with roller rockers, not sure of cam yet. So.. with the power plant out, what's next?  I have pulled the cooling pipes, will epoxy coat those inside and out.  I'm thinking that getting all the wiring/brake lines, any thing in the engine compartment should be addressed.  Suggestions are welcome.

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  • IMG_2419: engine bay
  • IMG_2427: fuel tank
  • IMG_2426: inside fuel tank
  • IMG_2428: interior
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Definitely check the pipes in the center tunnel…. Make sure they not rusted through.. would be perfect time to replace them.
have a look up the paddle box and see if there’s any major wear or broken Springs (Maybe install clutch assist linkage).

brake master cylinder,  clutch master cylinder.. Check hydraulic lines (Depending on preference, delete proportioning valve and shuttle valve and substitute with Wilwood brake proportioning valve) brake calipers

Check steering rack.

check the Wiring harness for 50 years of mechanic torture.

check all electrical switches

Open up Heater Core box and replace Heater Core… and valve…

Treat all the rust.

Rear uprights and wheel bearings

+ everything mentioned above

pretty much everything I did last year lolIMG_0096

For the “optional” stuff check out

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...uld-the-can-of-worms

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Last edited by LeMans850i

Great list! A large brake kit was included in the parts, will need to navigate that. It also already had the larger booster, new brake and clutch master(previous owner was a tall guy, so is that an extender behind the booster? The seat was also lowered). wiring is a must, and I do enjoy the satisfaction of everything working as it should!

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  • IMG_2431: larger brake booster
Last edited by with regards

For the engine:

- Replace the valves if they are OEMl Ford valves, they all break one day or another.
- All the main and connecting rod bearings.
- Replace the water pump with a more efficient modern one made of aluminum.
- Replace the oil pump which is very cheap.

If the ignition is the original one with points, it may be interesting to put an electronic one, for this there are many possibilities.

After all it depends if you want to keep the original performances or improve them and contrary to popular belief, open chamber cylinder heads are not that bad if you don't want a racing engine.



For the rest:

Replace the plastic gears on window and headlights motors that are 50 years old and often break with bronze gears.

The OEM radiator fans are not very efficient....

The air conditioning system works with R12 gas which it is advisable to replace with a R134a system, for this it is necessary to replace various components of the system (compressor, expansion valve, dehydrator ...)

Check the rear wheel bearings and replace them if they have the slightest clearance.

@rene4406 posted:

For the engine:

- Replace the valves if they are OEMl Ford valves, they all break one day or another.
- All the main and connecting rod bearings.
- Replace the water pump with a more efficient modern one made of aluminum.
- Replace the oil pump which is very cheap.

If the ignition is the original one with points, it may be interesting to put an electronic one, for this there are many possibilities.

After all it depends if you want to keep the original performances or improve them and contrary to popular belief, open chamber cylinder heads are not that bad if you don't want a racing engine.



For the rest:

Replace the plastic gears on window and headlights motors that are 50 years old and often break with bronze gears.

The OEM radiator fans are not very efficient....

The air conditioning system works with R12 gas which it is advisable to replace with a R134a system, for this it is necessary to replace various components of the system (compressor, expansion valve, dehydrator ...)

Check the rear wheel bearings and replace them if they have the slightest clearance.

Cool! considering getting the smaller diameter water pump pulley as well. High volume oil pump?  electronic ignition is an option.. as for the engine, would like to capitalize on modern advancements, but not too crazy.. no racing.. looking at the 3V 64cc hydraulic roller heads.

I'll definitely look for the bronze gears for all the motors.

Will need a radiator as well as fans..

has a new a/c compressor, will check the parts bin for the other items.

I think I have new bearings in the parts

I'm using the Speed Master 3V heads and intake combo.  Performance is good but the overall height is taller vs the stock setup.  So, if you are wanting to use the engine cover you may have to modify the screen depending on carb/air filter height.

I'm going back with the Sniper 2 EFI so I might get lucky, and it all fit under the engine cover.  Will know the answer in a couple of months.

Another issue is this setups intake manifold hangs out further at the rear of the engine so the factory oil sending unit interferes with the intake.  Have to use NPT extension to fit the sending unit or remove material from the intake.   If you go with a small external oil pressure gauge in that location it may fit without an extension.

John

#3590

A large volume oil pump is not necessary if everything else is good, it creates unnecessary additional stress on its drive shaft and the gears between the camshaft and the distributor.

A good improvement to the lubrication system is the installation of restrictors in the camshaft lubrication holes.

20210628_172720

Another very good improvement is to install bronze sleeves in the lifter holes, but this is a bigger operation.

Chemise poussoits en bronze trou 1.5

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  • Chemise poussoits en bronze trou 1.5
  • 20210628_172720
Last edited by rene4406

Thanks John, how's the low end torque?  thinking of going with the Performer and port matching as well as EFI.

Matt

Matt,

Low in torque feels good and strong but I have not had it on a dyno yet.  I'm having a cylinder sleeved at the moment so hoping to have it back and going in a couple of months along with the new sniper 2 efi.  Best guess, it's probably around 400HP at the wheels.

I have a friend with a dyno so I plan to take it there once its back.   

John

@jwelch68 posted:

Matt,

Low in torque feels good and strong but I have not had it on a dyno yet.  I'm having a cylinder sleeved at the moment so hoping to have it back and going in a couple of months along with the new sniper 2 efi.  Best guess, it's probably around 400HP at the wheels.

I have a friend with a dyno so I plan to take it there once its back.   

John

Nice, what cam did you use?

Nice, what cam did you use?

I went with an Isky Hydraulic Flat tappet cam.  .542" valve lift. 270 adv duration. 221 duration @ .050" Ground on a 108 lobe center. 

I use Valvoline VR 20W-50 oil so I don't have to worry about adding separate Zinc additives for the cam.

You will probably get different opinions on the cam choice, but I love the sound of my engine and performance has been good.  My engine builder is old school so this was part of his recommendation.  I have no regrets, but this engine isn't a high HP monster.   It was built to be street-able and 1 or 2 track days per year.

John

#3590

@rene4406 posted:

A large volume oil pump is not necessary if everything else is good, it creates unnecessary additional stress on its drive shaft and the gears between the camshaft and the distributor.

A good improvement to the lubrication system is the installation of restrictors in the camshaft lubrication holes.

20210628_172720

Another very good improvement is to install bronze sleeves in the lifter holes, but this is a bigger operation.

Chemise poussoits en bronze trou 1.5

Thanks Rene! I’ve seen the bronze sleeve hack I’ll look into the cam lube restrictor.

@jwelch68 posted:

I went with an Isky Hydraulic Flat tappet cam.  .542" valve lift. 270 adv duration. 221 duration @ .050" Ground on a 108 lobe center.

I use Valvoline VR 20W-50 oil so I don't have to worry about adding separate Zinc additives for the cam.

You will probably get different opinions on the cam choice, but I love the sound of my engine and performance has been good.  My engine builder is old school so this was part of his recommendation.  I have no regrets, but this engine isn't a high HP monster.   It was built to be street-able and 1 or 2 track days per year.

John

#3590

Thanks John, I know George P had some great info on cams especially with the open chamber.  LSA was around 110-114.

Moroso sells restrictor sets but some are too many and one is missing for bearing #1. Many years ago we did not put a restrictor for #1 because it is more difficult, but now it is recommended to put one on bearing1 as well, being careful to install it deep enough, after the channel for the main.

It is also quite easy to make restrictors yourself, they are just drilled headless screws.

The bronze bushings have a .060” hole to allow oil to the lifters.

The original design has about 1/2” holes machined through the casting.

The two mods (cam bearing restrictors, and lifter bore bushings) forces more of the oil to the main and rod bearings.

Rocky

GeorgeP has a comprehensive treatise on engine oiling and engine builds as a “sticky” in the Engine section here.  It’s very helpful.

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