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When the engine was rebuilt the bridge style timing pointer was not bolted into position behind the harmonic balancer. I have stripped all the belts and pulleys back off so its only the main pinion nut on the harmonic balancer to be removed to allow the HB to be pulled and the bridge pointer assembly to be bolted on. The shaft is keyed so the positive location should not be an issue .

As I was about to do it I did recall there is an oil slinger in line behind the HB sitting on the HB sleeve shaft inside the case . I cannot be sure that pulling the HB will not allow the Oil slinger to drop off the sleeve shaft down onto the central shaft  , preventing the reinstallation of the HB. Further I am not sure the oil level is actually below the lower invert of the HB sleeve shaft. Finally I am not sure the key cannot drop into somewhere nasty.

Am I about to cause myself a mile of pain? Has anyone been silly enough to do this ?

The only other alternative is to remove the water pump - also a bit of a pain but potentially the safer  option ? Almost starting to look attractive !?

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Am I understanding you correctly, you're doing all this because of the timing pointer??? None of that is necessary if that's the case. The pointer is a thin metal bracket that goes in with the timing cover bolts left and  right of the balancer. It slides down over the top w/the balancer in place. But why do all that anyway, simply cut the left side off so that you only use existing bolts going into the timing cover. In other words you're only going to use the left side of the bracket where the pointer is. The right side does nothing.

Another nifty idea is simply use a chisel and tap a thin nick on the forward side of the transaxle vent, tap another chisel line at TDC on flywheel, another at 5, 10.15 degree increments & mark them accordingly using different color paint pens. Time from the engine bay then.

Many of that era cars like the Bora & other Maserati 4.7, 4.9's, E-Type Jags, & Countach  that I've timed, they have inspection holes UNDER THE CAR of all places. From factory! Get 'cher timing light under there with a running engine!!  Fun. Ferrari is a little different in that era, they time from above not below. They have 2 distributors like Lamborghini) with separate factory marks pre-cut into the flywheel so you time both banks one after another. Now do total timing with advance in, meaning someone in the car has to hold 2000 RPM while you time.

Thank God you have a Pantera. Those afore mentioned cars don't have the juice of the Cleveland... even with multiple overhead cams and multi carbs, six 2's...Webers on a V12 Lambo & Ferrari of the day. None of 'em ran w/a Pantera still won't.

Thanks Gentlemen- most appreciated! BTW the bridge pointer will not slide down between the water pump and the HB. Its too tight. I was trying to keep the bridge pointer for originality. Not that anyone will ever be able to see it!

Note to self - don't offer to time Bora & other Maserati 4.7, 4.9's, E-Type Jags, & Countachs. Sounds very dodgy !

To close out his post here was the result. First issue was to work out how to pull the HB.

Looked at the various pullers here ranging upwards from  $100 dollarie dos.

Decided to make my own- zero dollars.

puller 2

It worked very well.

The edge of the pointer had to be flattened out to go under the AC mount. It

went in just.

pointer in position

Here is the HB back in place and torqued up.

pointer installed 2


Images (4)
  • puller 2: Home made HB Puller
  • pointer in position
  • pointer installed 2
  • pointer installed: Belts complete

Note to other owners- there are FOUR different types of Ford-issued timing pointers- one of which used a ring mount for an electronic timing sensor (on points ignitions!) used by Ford dealer$ during the smog era. Deleting the idler pulley and running a slightly shorter vee belt cleans up the timing area's visibility. You adjust A/C belt tension by moving the whole compressor on its slotted  bracket holes. Much easier with a half-weight rotary compressor.

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