I pulled the gauge cluster forward today and replaced my ammeter with a new voltmeter. The car started fine before the work but now I have a problem. Battery seems fine, motor turns over very well but no sign of ‘firing’. Can smell fuel. Any ideas about what I may have loosened or disconnected behind the gauge stack before I start researching?
Car was upgraded to electronic ignition by previous owner using duraspark 2 unit. Any advice on best sequence to troubleshoot is appreciated.
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amp and vol measures are TWO different things.
AMP in IN LINE with power kables
VOLT is parallel to the "Battery"
you need to CONNECT the two THICK kabels going today to the AMP meter DIRECKTLY
- then your enegine will start as befor
for the VOLT meter besides a ground connection somewhere in the dash you need to find a Bat + somewhere / well best a direct wire from Bat+ to meter..as otherwise you get may be too low readings. The best is to use the BAT+ plus AT THE AMP Metter today. so when you connect the two AMP kabels add a thin wire to it as VOLT + connection. That will do perfectly..
Thanks for the message. I did connect the two wires together and the car has full power, except maybe something in the ignition circuits. It turns over perfectly but just never 'catches' or fires.
well..you need someone to pull a spark plug connector - THEN with a towle or glove hold the connector against any metal part at the engine while you "CRANK" it. There should be a "lightning" be seen...ZAP..ZAp..
THIS is a HIGH VOLTAGE area so need protection on hands ..as above.
If NO "lighting"..iginition wiring is bad - as first guess..
Most likely a wire has come loose or a connection was disturbed when the cluster was removed and installed. As you've observed there are quite a few wires on the back of the cluster and its easy to pull one free.
matg posted:The best is to use the BAT+ plus AT THE AMP Metter today. so when you connect the two AMP kabels add a thin wire to it as VOLT + connection.
Connect the voltmeter to a SWITCHED 12 volt source. Otherwise, the volt meter will be a constant drain on the battery when the ignition key is turned off.
John
Thanks for all the recommendations. Spark tested fine. Turns out that the problem, while occurring right after voltmeter replacement, had nothing to do with the electrical side of the equation. Front float bowl in the carb was dry so replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, blew out the lines and less than $30 later, car running just as before. I like the new voltmeter too! On to the next project...
piney posted:I got myself one of these which helps a lot when checking for spark. You can clamp it somewhere convenient so that you can observe it from the driver´s seat while cranking.
What a cool tool. Can you add it to the tool forum?
