Just to clarify ??....

Does this help?

Yes that helps, thanks... I have a pretty good understanding of the layout accept for the one detail. My set came w/the #12A part in stainless and it appears #15 in the drawing you kindly posted is rubber. In the set I have #15 is also a hard line, so this creates another connection. The flexible rubber J bend shown would provide flexibility and eliminate two hose clamp connections. J bend w/a spring might be best??... At this point, I'm ready to cut the cooling tube brace off and counter sink it 10" forward and then put an insulated strap across the base of the firewall...

I think #15 is different diameters at each end; or is that 12? It is also very close to the pulley, right? The SS sets eliminated that rubber-near-the-pulley issue; and the stock two diameter hose is not an off-the-shelf at NAPA part, either. I've got 2511 up in the air right now; I'll slide under a take a photo or two later tonight.

Larry

Yeah, there is something I don't understand??.. I can't clear the E brake bracket?.. Thanks for your help!...

Looking up at bottom of tanks

Right hand piping to tank

Under firewall - hose on left goes to the tank.

Pipe on right goes to water pump

Pipe going to tank.

Hose clamp at right of photo is holding pipe to bracket; wrapped with hose piece for protection/vibration.

Hose section below compressor mounting ear is wrapped on SS pipe for protection.

Hose just visible at far left is the hose that connects to right hand under car pipe.

wow those are great, thank you!.. OK, now... on the third photo posted at 9:14... Thats the problem area for me. Has anyone ever gotten away with connecting those lines on the other side side of those firewall grommets?... Sliding the two (in my case) hard lines through and connecting them under the car??.. I'll shoot a photo in bit, when the sun comes up...

OK, this is what the factory intended, yes??.. As you can see the tubing is touching my brake bracket even when flush w/the firewall??.. I'll never get that on there w/that much clearence when the cooling tube is pushed through and the hose slipped over??.. What am I missing here??..

Can you push the 12A part through the firewall and connect it on the other side??.. Under the car??... Is that what you are suppose to do??...

What if I cut this tubing bracket/holder off and move it toward the front of the car about 10" ?.. That would allow for more clearence??.. I'm sure the best routing would be more obvious with the engine sitting in there...

As you may have figured out, 2511 does not have the E-brake bracket to contend with. The cable system has been removed in favor of a line-loc-style hydraulic valve. Yes, I know, this is just a parking brake not a legal E-brake, but that is what it was like when purchased by me.

Your problem pipe could be cut off to a shorter length; yes, you'll lose the end bead but other owners have said it is not needed if hoses are well clamped.

And yes, you could move the tubing support bracket.

Just curious - where did you purchase these tubes and have you asked them what the heck is going on?

Larry

I think I purchased them from Hall??.. I have not contacted them, I figured it would go right together?.. The problem is, I really don't have a lot of pantera exp and sometimes I can't see the forest because of all the trees?.. I'm getting close to putting the engine/tranny back in it. I have adopted the mod cooling system format as seen in the other "cooling system advice" thread. Just trying to build a happy car. I'm go lay under the car for a few... I think if I move that bracket back, then run a piece of 1/4" x 1/2 band across??... No E bracket is the way to go, plumbing clearence plus oil pan benefits....

I purchased my ss tubes from Hall about 8 months ago and have not installed them yet. I looked under the car with the pipe in question in hand. It was hard to tell for sure as the existing pipes are still in the car, but it appears that this pipe has to go through the support bracket with the hose on the forward side of the bracket. If the hose were installed on the rear side of the bracket, besides hitting the e-brake bracket, it appears that it will not line up with the water pump inlet. Kind of hard to tell with the old tubes still installed.

See if you can get a measurement as to where the water pump inlet will be when the engine is installed. Measure from the motor mount to the center line of the water pump inlet on the engine and transfer to the car frame?? This should tell you where the pipe should go.

The ss tube kit may have compensated for the through the bracket positioning by adjusting the forward tube at the radiator.

Yep, same part jb, it's 4"... I think if I cut that tube brace out carefully I can reuse it. I think that would solve the problem forever, I'm just a little hesitant to do that.... You know, the whole "down stream" thing...

As I recall the hose is indeed forward of the brace. You should not have to cut the brace!!

Yep, the connecting hose is forward of the tube bracket. It's a little bit easier to see how it fits once you have the engine in and the water pump connection to align to.

Julian

Thank you all very much for helping me clarify this !!...

Here's some picts of my 74. I did not cut anything. I did use premolded 90deg bypass hoses connection to the heater lines then into a copper pipe then to the heater hoses.

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