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Believe it or not but I have been to three locksmiths, Lowes and Home Depot with no luck. Looks like there are some other sources available for me to check out. I found the blanks at one well known Pantera parts seller for $ 27.00 for two and one of our suppliers has them for $ 17.00 each. I will make them out of pure gold before paying those crazy prices.
errdock did state the ignition is a FC7.

Looking through the jetkey site that has illustations, I would think the door/decklid would be either a FT37 or FT38.
Maybe someone would know which?

this blanks are currently heavily discounted on AVCO site (was $2.50 now $0.80)


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  • key

Listen up, folks. Some important Pantera lock quirks have not yet been addressed.

Knowing this info will perhaps save you from finding the keys you just bought won't fit YOUR Pantera, but do fit someone else's.


All Ford era Panteras used a complete column from the MK1 Capri. It was shortened about 10"-12" but retained all the Capri components. I do not know of any key design changes for the Pantera ignition lock, so one size should fit all.

The Capri ignition key has many different reference numbers. Previously mentioned was FC7, but my key is a FC2. The both have the same groove profiles.

Here are some of the other numbers listed for the FC7:

Curtis FC-7, FC7
Dominion CE9
Ilco X86
Ilco EZ FC7
Jet FC7
Orion FD12
Silca FO10, F010
Taylor X86

And for some reason, while FC2 is also correct (shows up as a proper FC7 substitute) the alternate FC2 numbers include numbers not found under the FC7 listings:

Cole H7
Dominion KL6
Ilco X20
Ilco EZ FC2
Jet FC2
Orion FD10
Silca FO7
Star CP1
Taylor X20


One size fits all is NOT the case for the door and trunk locks.

First off, the RH/LH door locks and the trunk lock SHOULD be serviced by the same key. If your Pantera needs two, or three, keys to work those three locks something (all?) is not original.

Second, there WAS a change in the key design for the door/trunk locks.

From the orange cover Master Parts catalog, I 'think' the change in design occurred around February, 1974.

The early/late keys are both originally a Fiat key design, but while they may casually look the same, the keyway grooves are different.

I believe 2511 has the original locks and my key is a Taylor F79-3. If that is the case, then the early cars (up to February, 1974??) use the Ilco FT38, Taylor F79-3 key.

Here are various numbers for the FT38 key:

Cole IT4
Curtis FT-38, FT38
Dominion SF6
Ilco FT38
Jet FT38
Orion FA3
Silca AF7C
Star FT2
Taylor F79-3

Later cars then used the Ilco FT37, Taylor F79-1 key???

Here are various numbers for the FT37 key:

Cole F51
Curtis FT-37, FT37
Dominion SF5
Ilco FT37
Jet FT37
Orion FA1
Silca AF7A
Star FT3
Taylor F79-1
Moto Guzzi 3

I'm attaching two pages that show the two Fiat versions.

Note each version shows a cross-section profile of the key grooves.

Oddly, the profile is taken from the vantage point of the BACK of the key, not with the tip facing you as might seem logical?

From the profile, you can see the groove nearest the un-cut edge of the early key has a much thinner outer edge, and incorporates a 45° side, than that of the later key.

After all these years, it is possible you have non-matching key versions on your car already. LH door with early key, RH door with later version key??? Or trunk different key version?

Study your keys and you'll at least know what to buy for each lock duplicate.

BTW, I recently had a lock cylinder re-keyed by my local locksmith. He is well past retirement age and truly knows his trade, but even he was stymied for awhile in just getting the cover off the springs and pin tumblers section. Once inside, he said he found the smallest springs/pins he'd ever seen. But he got the job done, and a member of this forum got a matched set of LH/RH/trunk locks. Smiler

Hope this clarifies and helps.

UPDATE - December, 2021….. I went down the rabbit hole on locks and keys and I have purchased a handheld key cutter and the proper components to cut keys. But your local locksmith can easily do that as long as you find the correct key blank. I can also decipher a lock for which you have no key (for this I need the key cutter) and re-key miss matched locks to a single key.

TIP - door key not working on the trunk lock? I have “fixed” a couple of trunk locks just by repeatedly cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner. A good soaking in lacquer thinner, some key movement, some compressed air, and some Houdini lock spray will also do the job. All of the soot and dust at the rear of the car actually builds up and prevents the lock cylinder from rotating in the lock housing.

send me a private message with your questions and needs


'early' key style


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  • 2511-style_door_keys
Last edited by lf-tp2511

Larry - if only I had seen this earlier !!

Just a word of warning- the standard key blanks now sold by Halls (at high prices ) for the doors and trunk external locks  seem only to be the FT37. If you have FT38 lock they will not fit. They look the same but they are not.

I only know because it happened to a friend of mine .....!

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